Decking material includes just about everything you can think of that could be used for a deck. Composite decking is a type of decking that is made from a combination of wood fibers or sawdust and plastic. If you prefer to use traditional lumber, 2 X 6 is the most common lumber used, but you can also get hardwood decking, such as Ipe, cedar and redwood. In the line of wood decking material, you can get #1 and #2. # 1 lumber is kiln-dried to help prevent warping, cupping and checking. #2 lumber is considered green or wet. If you are not sure about the new composite decking material that you have heard so much about, just visit one of your local decking retailers to see what it looks like. You can also do a search online and do a comparison of composite decking material and the traditional wood for decking. You can also compare the manufacturers of this decking material to find the best product for your needs at the best price. Some of the popular manufacturers of composite decking include Trex, Choice Dek, Weatherbest, Eon, Ipe and GeoDeck. The invention of composite decking material has reduced the amount of work that homeowners have with building and maintaining a deck around their homes. There are various types of decking material that will last for years and with which you have very low maintenance to keep it looking just as new as the day you installed it. When you do a comparison of composite decking materials, you will find that when you have a deck made of this material, the only work you will ever have to do with it is to hose it down for cleaning. No more painting, scraping or repairing rotten boards in the decking in the spring. Composite material is well able to withstand the elements of the weather. A comparison of composite decking material also means you have to look at the prices of each brand. Some of the manufacturers have tile decking that just snaps together. Some of these tiles come in a hardwood pattern and by rotating them you can create an interesting decking design. All of the composite decking materials are colored through so there is very little if any fading. This decking material is also slip-resistant and the water drains through the mesh base. Take a good look at the many types of decking material on the market when you want to install a new deck. Whether you choose to use composite decking material or not, you will have to build a wooden frame. All the instructions you need for installing the composite boards or tiles are included in the packages and you can easily complete a typical deck in a few hours. Why bother with decking material that you have to paint or stain, when you can use composite decking and then sit back and enjoy it?
question:
What would you do differently if you could redesign your pool / outdoor living area?
I am in the planning stages of adding a pool, outdoor living area, and additional master bedroom to my house. I am currently researching pool control systems, decking material, water features, etc. and would love insight from others as to what NOT to do and why.
Any insight on the following features would also be helpful!
- beach entry/zero entry
- laminar water jets
- control systems
Thanks!
answer:
I have always dreamed of opening double doors of my kitchen and walking out right onto a stone patio with an inground pool, hot tub, and a nice seating area.
In our deck, we have wood instead of stone. The only advice i can give is if you go with wood, DO NOT USE NAILS, USE SCREWS. Screws can be removed, nail have to be pryed out.
Good luck!
question:
How do I replace my boat deck?
I need to replace part of my boat deck. I'd like to put pressure treated plywood with fiberglass over. How do I do the fiberglass portion? What materials? Any advice?
answer:
As stated above pressure treated wood is not good for glassing over. You can get marine grade plywood and glass over that. You can get fiberglass mat and resin with hardener from a marine supply store or even an automotive store. After you fit the plywood and allow for the addition of the fiberglass,, saturate the wood with resin and then apply the glass. Then saturate the glass and let dry. You can roll on the resin or brush it on, make sure you get the edges of the plywood. After it drys do the other side, then paint as desired with a marine grade paint.
question:
What is composite wood (WPC) ? is this durable, affordable and are they any suppliers in Singapore ?
I am thinking of having a decking in my garden and currently evaluating this new material. Any advice ?
answer:
Wood-plastic composites (WPCs) are composite materials made of wood fiber/flour and thermoplastic(s) (includes PE, PP, PVC etc.).
Wood-plastic composites are still new materials relative to the long history of natural lumber as a building material. The most widespread use of WPCs in North America is in outdoor deck floors, but it is also used for railings, fences, landscaping timbers, cladding and siding, park benches, molding and trim, window and door frames, and indoor furniture.[2] Wood-plastic composites were first introduced into the decking market in the early 1990s. Manufacturers claim that wood-plastic composite is more environmentally friendly and requires less maintenance than the alternatives of solid wood treated with preservatives or solid wood of rot-resistant species.
> it does not corrode
>highly resistant to rot, decay,
>have good workability
>lack of need for paint
>available in diffrent colors
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pls see the link
question:
I am building a deck. Which material should I use to raise the ground level below the deck?
I need to raise the ground level so that water flows away from the building. The deck is low in height and the area below it will not be visible or accessible. I thought to use limestone screening as it also discourages weeds. I shall appreciate any advice. Thanks.
answer:
If you go to the place where you are going to buy the material, they will have a bunch of options that are available in your area. Let the price be your guide. Anything that you put down that is heavy, dense, and doesn't contain much nutrient will work fine. You can always add sand over it for extra insurance against anything growing. Around where I live, pea stone and gravel are very inexpensive and would do the job just fine. See what you can get a bargain on, and talk the guys at the stone yard. Sometimes they have cracked patio stones that they are giving away just to get rid of them - that would also work well and not cost anything,
question:
How do I build an indoor deck/ loft in a bedroom?
I'm moving. I'm renting out a small room in a small apartment... I need space. I want to build a loft in there.... Something I can put my bed on AND have room on top for other things like maybe a sitting space or some light storage. Where do I find plans to build such a structure? What is your advice on how to go about doing it? I have no experience with woodworking and I don't want this thing collapsing on me. I also don't have a lot of money to put into this.
It's a queen size bed
answer:
First of all I have to agree in part with one answer,,,GET approval.
Consider the ceiling height? How tall are you, or anyone who might have to access the area UNDER the loft, or above it?
Given the assumption that 7 ft is a minimal height for standing under, you'd still need a 16 ft ceiling over all to acommodate the structure of the loft floor, and maybe allow for venting, light fixtures etc.
Even if it's just for storage you need to consider it must support YOU to walk on it, and whatever weight you choose to store,,,never mind the weight of it being another entire Living quarters in the form of a bedroom.
Now, to address construction if all else seems feasable??? Sigh.
No less that 2 x 8 beams for the floor, and 3/4 plywood for the actual flooring. Ledgers attached in some way to the exterior of the existing structure to support the loft, and/or support beams, IE: 4 x 4's from the existing lower level floor. A stair case, or at the least a stair situation like fold up/ pull down. If you felt like a ladder might be acceptable I guess you could go that route?
I added a loft/office in a commercial NON PROFIT establishment, using code rules, and materials. I charged 00, plus materials, for a 10 x 16 space.
Rev. Steven
question:
What yugioh card/effect allows me to look through my deck and get any spell card?
I have a couple of magic cards that work good for only certain monsters and it would be nice if I get get these cards together. Any advice?
answer:
Ya my best bet is Gold Sarcophagus, But I heard there is a new xyz card coming out that lets you detach a material to search for a spell card from your deck and add it to you hand.
question:
What kind of materials and food to bring on camping trip?
I am going camping for the first time with some friends and i was wondering what sorts of materials and food we should take? Any tips/advice helps! Thanks in advance :)
answer:
Here is a list of things you might need...
Oh and contrary to what somebody else said, I'd plan on having a campfire. That's one of the best things about camping. Even if this is your 1st time camping, I'd still do a fire. Bring some old newspapers and lighter fluid to get it going. Old dry pine needles are a great fire starter if they are laying around too.
___ Tent
___ Tarp
___ Tent stakes
___ Sleeping bags/blankets/sheets
___ Pillows
___ Folding chairs
___ Old blanket for laying on ground
___Beach umbrella
___ Flashlights
___ Batteries (For flashlight and radio)
___ Clothes line/Rope ___Clothes pins
___Broom/Dustpan
___Books
___Pens ___Puzzle books ___Cards ___Games ___Frisbee ___Balls ___Radio ___CD s
___ Camera
___ Cloth bags
___ Lighter fluid (Outside deck)
___ Matches (Packed in garage)
___ Wood unless it's provided at the campground (Possibly an ax if you have one handy to cut your own wood).
___ Pans/Pots with lids
___ Strainer
___ Pot holders
___ Coolers
___ Water Bottles
___ Plates
___ Bowls
___ Cups
___ Silverware
___ Spatula
___ Tongs
___ Knife
___ Ladel spoon
___ Scissors
___ Can opener
___ Trash bags
___ Gallon size bags
___ Foil
___ Big buckets/Dishpans (2 for doing dishes)
___ Sponge/Scrubber
___ Dish soap
___ Towels___ washcloths ___ dish towels
___ Hand sanitizer
___ Paper towels/napkins
___ Wipes
___Disposable Gloves
___ Bandaids ___Neosporin ___Calamine Lotion
___ Sunscreen ___ Aloe ___Burn Spray
___ Meds ___Tylenol ___Motrin ___Thermometer ___Benadryl
___Bug spray ___Citronella Candles
___Raid
___ Soap ___Shampoo ___ Conditioner
___Shaving Cream ___Razors
___Pads/Tampons if needed
___Toothbrushes ___Tooth Pastes ___Mouthwashes
___Q-tips
___Laundry Detergent?
FOOD: (My son and I are Vegan, my daughters and DH are meat eaters; this is the food list I bring for 4 nights. You can adjust it to meet your needs better. It was just easier for me to copy and paste it from my word document I saved it on...)
___Water Gallons (3-4) ___Water bottles (Large container)
___Flavored waters
___Soda ___Juice boxes ___Crystal Lite packets/Kool-aid
___Ketchup ___Mustard ___3-4 BBQ Sauce ___Salt ___Pepper ___Seasonings
___Mayo ___Fake mayo ___Power-aid ___Sugar (Small)
___ Cereal ___Oatmeal ___Parmalat Milks ___Shelf-Stable Soy Milk
___ Protein bars
___1 box Boca Burgers ___1 pack Smart Dogs ___2 Pack Chicken patties ___1 box Boca Chicken Burgers ___Tuna 1-2 cans
___Burgers ___Hotdogs ___ (Small pack)Chicken
___ 1 Ribs ___ Pork Chops
___Cheese
___Pickles
___ Peanut butter ___Fruit spread ___Margarine
___ Hummus powder
___Bread ___Hotdog rolls ___Burger rolls
___Pretzels ___Crackers ___Fruit snacks ___Corn chips ___Sun Chips
___Popcorn (Jiffy pop in pan)
___Marshmallows
___Chocolate ___Vegan chocolate
___Graham crackers
___Noodles
___ Macaroni ___Spaghetti ___Sauce (1)
___ Cans fruit ___Applesauce ___ Dried fruit ___Watermelon
___Other fruits
___Tea ___Cocoa ___Coffee(Instant-Small)
___Nuts
___ Bagged rice
___ Lettuce ___Tomato ___Cukes with dressing
___Corn on the cob ___Onion
___ Nuts
Clothing: (How much clothing you will need depends on how long you will be camping. You will want at least a couple more outfits then you believe you'll need. The sweaters are a good idea even if it's planned to be hot during the day. At night for walks to the bathroom, etc it can be chilly as it can early in the mornings.
We usually go for 4 nights and this is what I bring...
___ Socks, ___ flip flops ___ underwear (8) ___Bras (3-4) ___T-shirts/tanks (5) ___ Shorts (4-5) ___bathing suits (2) ___Pants(2) ___warm pajamas ___ sweaters (2) ___Lotion
___ Lightweight jacket ___ sneakers ___ Pants ___Belt
___ Hair scrunchies/barettes ___Deoderant ___Brush
question:
What is a resonable price for a 10x19 Screen Porch?
Porch would have decking for flooring and a tongue and groove ceiling. Three electrical outlets and pre-wired for a ceiling fan. Also a storm screen door rather then a wooden screen door. Need to know what a good price would be for adding a porch to my home.
answer:
Although you have provided more information than most people who post this type of question, there still is insufficient information to provide a good answer. Someone might hazard a guess as to a price based on square footage, but it would still be a guess at best and will almost certainly be way off base.
Structurally, you describe building a room with a traditional roof and overhang that should match your house. You have not mentioned the pitch of the existing roof of your house ... the porch roof should match. Screen panels between roof support posts replace a framed solid wall. You do not indicate whether the screen area will fun from floor to ceiling or if there will be a knee wall around the perimeter. I assume that the deck that makes up the floor would be built in a manner that accomodates the load of the roof above. You have not indicated the height of the deck off of the ground. You have specified an exit door, but without the height off the ground, it is impossible to estimate the price of a landing and flight of stairs. And on ... and on ... and on. You get the picture.
The best advice I can give you is to hire someone to design your room, provide a set of drawings, and write you a set of specifications. For a project of this type, you should be able to get this done for 0.00 or less. It will be the best money you spend on your project.
Once you are satisfied with your plans and specifications, it is time to let them out for bid. Choose three or four reputable contractors in your area and have them submit bids to build your project based on your plans and specs. Your buying decision will be simplified because they are all bidding on exactly the same project.
If you intend to make this a "do-it-yourself" project, take your plans and specifications to the Contractors Desk at your local Lowe's, Home Depot, or neighborhood lumber company and they should give you a free itemized list of materials and pricing. This is what they do on a daily basis so don't be afraid to ask. You can purchase from one source or buy the components from the entity with the cheapest price for each.
Keep in mind that you are building a structural addition to your house and will almost certainly need a building permit. The permit application will require that you submit a set of plans and specifications. This is just one more reason to nail down the plans and specs on the front end of your project.
I hope this information helps. Good luck with your project.
question:
What be the best, "affordable" way to record my electric guitar on my pc? And good software?
Hello. I would like to record my guitar in order to composed songs by making multiple guitar tracks and combining them together.
So my questions:
1. What is the best way to record the sound coming from my amp? Do I plug it directly into the computer, or do I use my USB Samson Condenser microphone? If so, where do I place it when recording?
2. What is a good software like garageband on the Mac for recording on the pc? I heard that audacity is free, but what's something better than that for less than 0? Or is audacity all I need?
I would like to make the best studio quality music that I possible can with I've got. So all tips, help, and advice is greatly appreciated.
P. S. I heard there are ways to record my guitar without needing amp, if so, how? Do I need a mixer, or a Line 6 Pod to do that?
THANK YOU FOR YOUR TIME!
answer:
Okay then.
A lot of it can be trail and error, doing your research first and product comparison and becoming familiar with either audio interfacing or component audio recording as decks, mixers, microphones, headphones and phantom amplifications.
And, how much time, money and patience you have to dedicate this area of activity for the best results possible.
Basics can start with the variety of audio interface, circuit converters. These have the simpler set up systems and software program that many provide through home PCs and laptop situations. It involves cable hook ups between the PC and the audio source (inputting) as a guitar or other audio output media as decks, an electric guitar, microphone or even a turntable, according to what they are designed for.
Those are the least expensive route to take as well. And each brand either have parameters of software of their own to incorporate operation, needed for downloading any further engines or additional 'updates' and/or compatible with other makes of audio conversion software, or mixing and effects programs. Sometimes, even unwanted data and advertising for 'future' updates and changes.
To say, there comes a time when this can be successful for out of the box and first timers, or being a 50-50 proposition, or... not being compatible at all with your OS that is already in your PC, when it comes to burning CDs.
And it is most important having audio interfacing, any software aids and mixing programs to go along (being compatible) with your particular operating system as having the Windows 8, 7, Vista, XP or earlier OS settings.
There are free downloads a plenty, but not to say they are real guarantees that things will go well, but there are some success stories, others not so good.
It can get costly and soon take up space as items can be added on to achieve the level of efficiency and quality of recording and playback of material. To what you may expect or as you want to improve upon the results and/or the ease of operations. Lots to learn when it can come to even cables and circuit pathway routing. Even a simple switch of a few wires can send anyone into a panic when not realizing a wrong connection has been made.
That is why when one is into recording medias over the years, it comes down to having the better (separate recording devices, decks, mixers, amps and receivers, etc.) components that not only provide better results but prepared to take on other audio inputting concerns and expansion of an eventual studio as the years go by.
All depends what you expect in the beginning... and how far you are willing to go both financially, issues of specialized components and dedicated space for all the equipment needs for more professional results if not easy sailing during those recording sessions you intend to enjoy.
And bring good results due to your efforts.
And yes, you can record without the amp through several (inexpensive) audio interfacing devices on the market. Otherwise, it (just the PC's audio input line) will be treated as any microphone, audio inputting but dependent upon any effects or tonal changes through the PC conversions and the software and OS you are using to enhance the barefoot signal. If at all, and if there is a signal being picked up.
question:
How much would it cost to build?
How much would it cost to tear down and rebuild a deck. The measurements would be 25 X 14 X 5. This would be an L shaped porch, around the front to the side of the house, 25 feet long, by 14 feet long, to 5 feet out. What is the cost of this work going to be, with lumber and labor?
Serious answers please! Thanks
answer:
Your total cost depends on many things including the going rate for pretreated wood in your area. Another factor is the charge from the builder.
I am in a carpentry program at the Technical College and I'd suggest going to the instructor and talking with him. You may be able to hire some of the students at less than someone who is in the business. I know that at my class we have a very high standard and do things right, but I would be certain that if hiring a student you feel confident that he/she knows what she is doing.
You can make the best decision by educating yourself first. There are now more materials than wood to do so and you may decided that you want to use them. There are a number of sites on-line that give detailed information. Put in a search "how to build a deck".
I would also check with the local Lowe's or Home Depot for excellent advice, and don't forget the library.
Good luck.
question:
How do I send teacher recommendations for college applications?
I am applying with the Common Application to most of the colleges I am applying to, and I am a bit confused about the forms they have given me for teacher reccomendations.
Do the teachers send the recomendations themselves?
Do I need to give them separate forms for each school that requires a reccomendation and ask them to mail each to the right school?
Do I get to see what they write before they send it?
If I am applying online to most of my schools, how does the teacher reccomendation find its way to my online application? Will the school match it up?
Any answers and advice on this step of the application process would really help. Thanks.
answer:
Every school has their own way to elicit teacher recommendations. They can range from a pre-printed form with check boxes and some space for written comments to just leaving it up to the recommending teacher to type up a letter on letterhead. So you have to follow their instructions.
Getting the letters of recommendation to the requesting college. Again, pretty much follow the rules...some want them sent directly from the recommender to the college, some want them enclosed in a sealed envelope that you include with your application. In the case of direct mailing, you should provide the addressed and stamped envelope to your teacher.
Most times, you don't get to see what is written...though some faculty give a copy to you...never hurts to ask. But almost always, the recommender is asked to indicate a preference to allow you to see the letter (after it has been received by the college) or not. Some times the recommender is told, before they write the letter, the file is open to the student. Again, it depends on the college policy.
To make sure independently sent letters match up to your application, be sure your name is clearly printed on all relevant materials. In the past, Soc Sec # were commonly used with the name. But in this era of identity theft. you need to so something to make sure there is no mix up. So, perhaps your mailing address should be put on all the documents so there can be little chance things won't match up with your application. [Hint: I would also put a pre-paid post card in with the letter of recommendation. The post card was addressed to myself and on the back, I created a form that indicated / stated: this is to acknowledge receipt of ____ for (my name) and I would leave space for them to fill in the date. I put a sticky note on the front of the post card saying something to the effect, please mail to confirm receipt of this letter of recommendation.
Additional suggestion:
Think carefully about who you ask....you want to stack the deck in your favor and be sure that person will write an excellent one for you. If you ask a teacher, consider how well they know you.
Your approach is simple. Ask if they would write a letter of recommendation for you. Explain your situation and needs, and provide sufficient information so they can do a good job for you. (The info you provide is detailed below.)
Consider the true intent of the letter of recommendation...to fill the gaps and gain insight about you that don't show up in a GPA number or test score.
It doesn't matter so much WHO writes the letter as much as the quality of the content relative to the needs of the committee evaluating your application. (Some schools want a letter from a teacher and one from a non-teacher.)
From my experience on application review and scholarship review committees...most schools are trying to find "outstanding" students. So a key factor in the letter has to clearly set you apart from other applicants. You need to figure out what criteria or characteristics the school values in students they see as outstanding.
Generally, consider what makes a good worker...because in one sense, your job as a student is to study...and the college/university and professors are like your bosses...only they usually pay you with a grade.
Consider you goals...what you want to do, and why you want to do it...and AFTER you graduate, what will you do to with your education and degree. It's a given one of your goals is to graduate...and what you want to do is associated with your major....but what they don't know is why you are interested in the major...and once you are educated, what will you do with your degree....and how that might reflect on the college.
And now, the challenge is to find someone who knows you well enough to answer those questions for the school by writing a letter of recommendation for you. And get real, how many of teachers really get to know their students that well...unless of course, you engage them in conversations through the term. Many schools are concerned how well you will study and function in their institution.
If you need an idea of what characteristics make a good worker (and believe me, there are many of them that apply to being an "outstanding student") visit http://www.neighborhoodlink.com/public/c... and learn about SCANS...a study done by the US Dept of Labor.
Use the SCANS checklist to document your studies and performance. In other words, do a personal inventory using the SCANS checklists. Look at job descriptions for your intended major / profession. Do a SCANS checklist of the job description....compare/contras... it to your personal inventory to see how well prepared you are for that job....any differences point out what you may need to study to acquire the necessary knowledge/skills for that job. Use the SCANS checklists to assess your college course...and know what knowledge and skills you got from them.
Put it all together....be sure the letters of recommendation include specific facts to support the statements...and that key words from the SCANS checklists show up in the letter. Best way to have that happen is to give a draft letter to the person you ask for the recommendation....along with a copy of your resume, transcripts, and a biographical essay or an essay about why you chose your major. In other words, do your homework and provide the writer with all the tools and facts necessary to do a good job. They can toss your draft....or, they can use it...modify it...embellish it....but if they have to start from scratch...and have little to go on...how can you reasonable expect them to do a good job for you?
I have read many letters of recommendation from various sources....its the quality and factual content of the letter that is more important than the title of the writer.
When a teacher writes "one of the best students I ever had" I really have to wonder...so how many students is that? and best is relative...if all of the other students had bad grades and one student was on the high end of the bad grades...that makes the high scorer the "best" of the low grades...
Whomever you approach, do them the courtesy of providing them with the background materials to do a good job...along with sufficient time to do it...clearly stating the deadline, where the letter is to be sent, along with an pre-stamped and addressed envelope.
Sure hopes this helps. Good luck and best wishes...
question:
How to best insulate a floor/deck sitting on piers?
I'm building a 20X24 cabin on piers and want to insulate the floor but avoid giving all the critters around free nesting material. Looking for a good web site or advice that will help explain a few options.
answer:
Well, the best way is not especially the lowest cost way.
If cost is not an issue, I would recommend an expanding urathane foam.
It sprays on as a liquid about 1/8 to 1/4-inch thick and expands to 2.5-3.0-inches. At about R-7 per inch it will provide plenty of insulation power.
Be very careful to get the CLOSED-Cell product not the open cell. The closed cell is designed for exterior use. Open cell is designed for being used inside gypsum board walls. It will not put up with being under a cabin.
If cost is an issue, i would use liquid nails and cut the blue extruded foam boards to fit between the framing and glue them in place. This will be a nasty job as you will need at least 3 layers of R-5 to come close to being worth the effort.
question:
What causes composite decking to be wavy?
Hello, I was needing some help. We are in the progress of building a home. We are not doing the work ourselves, we have hired what should be reputable contractors. My problem is we have just installed a big composite deck which is extremely wavy. They just put the roof up today. I don't know much or understand what the reason for this is. Defective composite? Not properly installed? We have spent a whole lot of money for this mess. My husband just wants to say this happens. But it has me irritated, it is extremely noticeable. The excitement of moving in a new home is gone for me. Any advice appreciated.
answer:
To say unequivocally that these materials will not warp would be a bit of an overstatement. There is still that possibility, and it's imperative that the manufacturer's rated spans not be exceeded, and that there is sufficient support and an adequate number of fasteners used.
question:
I need answer from piano teacher on how to teach a 4 year old to play piano?
I'm planning to teach my daughter piano. I don't know what book to use and method? She knows all the letters, but does't read yet. Even though I play piano for years, I never had any experience to teach. I need advice on material that I need to use and method. thanks in advance!
answer:
If there is someone in town who is good at teaching preschool music, go for it.
See if there is someone licensed in Kindermusik.
That's a curriculum which makes music a fun and gregarious activity for preschoolers.
If that works, then you can invest in a violin if there is also a Suzuki teacher in the area.
The most important variables are patience and creativity on the part of the adult.
Here are some ideas which I have used with preschoolers:
manipulating wooden cut-out notes
I start with quarter notes and eighth-note couplets only.
That's plenty enough for a preschool beginner.
manipulating oversize notes
After teaching the child a song, give the child a set of cards and see if he or she can arrange them in the correct order.
I start with songs using only so and mi.
In Lois Choksy's books, there is a compilation of such songs.
That's plenty enough for a preschool beginner.
This page from my Website might be helpful:
http://www.pentatonika.net/very_beginning.html
melodic dictation
Hum so mi so so and ask the child to play it.
With only so and mi, this activity can last longer than you might expect.
If you limit the activity to 4/4 measures using only quarter notes, that gives you 16 possible rhythms.
If you add in eighth note couplets, that brings it up to 256.
Preschoolers sometimes like to reciprocate.
If the child wants to dictate measures to you, I hope you don't mind.
measure search game
With the score for the song in front of you, play one measure from the song and ask the child to identify.
If the child wants to reverse roles, don't take it personally.
In fact, that's good, because the game lasts twice as long that way.
rhythmic dictation
"Show me quart quart eighth-eighth quart."
Again, if the child wants to turn the tables, I hope you will be a good sport.
transposing
Show the child where the two notes are for the two-note songs in all 12 keys.
This may bore the dickens out of an adult, but preschoolers love it.
card games
Make a card deck consisting of 2 cards for each of the 16 possible 4/4 rhythms using quarter notes and eighth-note couplets. If that's too much to handle, use only a few cards out of the deck.
At first, a preschooler might not understand any card game except the memory game, but after a while, he or she can understand old maid and go fish.
This page from my Website might be helpful:
http://www.pentatonika.net/fun_activities.html
ostinatos
An ostinato can be very simple.
While you sing or play a bichordal song, such as Mary Had a Little Lamb or Skip to My Lou, the child can repeat the fifth note of the scale.
If the child enjoys it the first time, do it 11 more times in all the other keys.
There have been compositions written for exactly this purpose. Exploring the Piano by Alexander Tcherepnin is a good one.
This page from my Website might be helpful:
http://www.pentatonika.net/ostinato.html
anything involving permutations
I once worked with a 3-year-old using a set of bells and a chord organ.
While I played the bells and she played the chord organ, I chanted the child's name on all 12 major chords and all 12 minor chords.
Then she asked me to do the same thing on the words "Mommy" and "Daddy."
Then she asked me to trade instruments and we performed the whole ritual all over again.
If anyone ever tells you that "preschoolers have a 5-minute attention span," remind them that the number 5 can be multiplied.
If you have at least 12 different activities, the child can last for a whole hour.
I know because I've been there and done that.
question:
Does anyone have advice/experience with composite decking?
We are looking at the Trex brand. Very expensive but worth it if there is little to no maintenance. Anyone have any advice/experience?
answer:
Yes, lots of advice. Composite decking is definately worth it. There is little maintenance. You still need to clean it once a year, don't let a salesman tell you otherwise, that is maintenance. Plus, if you go with wood, you will replace it in 7 years, unless you really maintain it and it sounds like you don't want to do that. I am not a big fan of Trex though. There are many other products out there. I suggest Fiberon or Evergrain. These are both made with higher quality materials than Trex and cost about the same. Once you make that jump from wood to composite, you want high quality material. Trex has had some major problems recently with mold and I think there have been some lawsuits. You can find out more about that in their investor news. But as far as I know Fiberon and Evergrain have never had any major problems. Good luck and enjoy you composite deck.
question:
How much would an 8 x 8 front porch with roof cost?
We live in an old house and want a basic deck like front porch with roof. We are not sure if an a-frame or a shed roof would be cheaper. We are looking at 8 x 8 in size. Any estimates?
answer:
There are a ton of variables that enter into an estimate of this nature. Site considerations, design, materials desired etc. It is a very small project in size, but very important in terms of visual impact since you are talking about the front of your house. You must consider that you will probably need a permit as well. I think it would be irresponsible for someone to guess at a price with so little info to go on. My advice would be to call your local building department to get a fix on their requirements, then call 2 or 3 local contractors or carpenters with good reputations for advice and some pricing. The better contractors and carpenters will always be happy to give free estimates and point out the pros and cons of your ideas. Also bear in mind that your building department may require plans to be submitted for a permit. Best of luck.
question:
Where can I buy exterior grade laminated or engineered lumber to build deck stairs?
I am re-building deck stairs and would like to build the new stair stringers using exterior grade or Pressure Treated laminated or engineered lumber that won't warp or bow. I need to buy four 2 X 12's at least 16 ft long. Thanks in advance for your help and advice.
answer:
Visit a local lumber yard that services contractors with quality material. Ask of them guidance in the products offered. Make a price comparison between the types of material in which you are interested. Some vendors have stair stringers precut which will save you time. Otherwise you will probably be using the old stringers as the pattern.
question:
How to totally seal deck to act as roof for area below deck?
I have built a storage area underneath my outdoor deck, and I want to convert the deck above it into a waterproof 'roof' that also will serve as the flooring of the deck, and ultimately the flooring of a screened in room. What options do I have to convert the deck into a screened in room floor that will also act as a totally waterproof area (roof) for the storage area below?
Some thoughts are plywood with some sort of protective resin, covered in either hardwood, tile, or outdoor carpet. Or, plywood covered in some type of commercial floor sealant/resin/material.
answer:
I do this often. This may be more complicated than you imagine. You may have to modify the structure to accomplish this. Having said that, let me give you the following advice, please take no offense at the simplistic way I answer, it's all I know how to explain.....
1. Please be sure that all posts, bracing, and substructure (beams, foundation and etc.) are capable of handling a full extension. (please be very sure).
2. Make sure that the house anchor unit is safe, secure/sealed and as level as humanly possible. This will be the ledger the rest of the project relies on.
3. Make sure that you use Pressure Treated Plywood for the sub-flooring.
4. On top of the sub-floor, make sure you use a rubber roofing membrane (making sure to seal every seam well).
5. You can re-attatch any flooring/structure you had on top of this so long as you seal EVERY penetration well. If not, and I would recommend this, simply apply an asphalt (self sealing) cover over the membrane (as this can be left where it is/remain when you eventually build up) and it will cost you the least to apply both in time and money. Anything you apply above it needs to be sealed at its penetration point (careful and prepared is always good).
6. Replace your rails.
7. When you replace the rails, make sure you provide the anchor points/system, for the next build out (you will seriously thank me later for that one piece of advice).
With the substructure, and future plans, taken care of.... Have fun.
If there are ANY questions you wish to ask, write to me at any time. If I can't give a great answer on line,, I'll even give you my business number to call so I may explain further.
question:
i need to replace the roof on my mobile home. what kind of roofing materials are commonly used?
Anyone familiar with replacing the roofing on mobile homes? What are the industry standards for, materials used, and replacement techniques?
What type of questions should I be asking the contractor when they come to price the job? and what are the answers to the questions so I know the contractor knows what he is doing?
I live in Connecticut so I need something that will stand up to heat and cold. what products are used?
Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
answer:
it depends on the type of existing roof.
Hud governs mobile homes and they determine what materials are acceptable for a shingled roof one layer of 25 year shingles will keep you within dead load specs. if you have a tin roof the best alternative als accepted by many states is an |EPDM membrane either white or black. Insulation can be added as well and it will remain within weight specs. A "roofover" with trusses and decking that is supported by the home is not acceptable for houses after 1973 when HUD took over.Prior to that your local building official will have to make a judgement. a self supporting shell is acceptable but often can be expensive.
question:
What should I do with my morning glories?
I have my morning glories growing up an extra piece of fence rack on my deck (as shown) I would like for my plants to survive the winter in upstate NY, & be with me for a while more. Someone, PLEASE HELP before the frost comes. I am having zero luck in finding advice through research. I am open to all kinds of suggestions.
answer:
Morning Glories will survive only until the cold gets them. Harvest some of their seeds and plant more next year. Also, just because it frosts doesn't mean the frost will immediately kill your plants. Especially if they are on the deck I wouldn't expect that a frost would get them right away. You can cover them with an old bed sheet or the fabric that is used for row covers or even newspaper. On nights when a frost is predicted, cover them with your chosen material before sunset. Remove the cover in the morning once the sun is up and the temps are above 32. Try to avoid covering them with plastic because of condensation. If you can move the lattice, you could even move the pots indoors at night and then set them back outside in the morning.
question:
What do i need for amp and sub install in a 2008 silverado?
i am installing an amp and 2 subwoofers in my 2008 silverado i want a list of materials i need , also i would like any advice anyone has about the install. Ive heard some type of adapter is needed since so many things run through the radio. i am keeping the original deck. not doing anything to extreme. what type of adapter i need and other details will be greatly appreciated
I am not changing the deck, all of the equipment being use is a present and i cannot afford a new deck
answer:
I would highly highly recommend replacing the factory deck.
You're going to have to tap off of the rear speakers to get your signal to the amp, either using a line-level converter or if the amp has line level inputs you can do that.
Unfortunately, this truck in particular has a built-in protection feature on the deck. At high volumes it cuts down on bass to protects speakers. Since you're tapping into the speakers for bass, this means your subs are going to get cut down proportionally.
There are products, such as Re-Q, JL Cleansweep and Rockford 360 which get past this, but in all reality they cost about the same amount as a deck can, and they're usually pretty tricky to get working just right.
I'd recommend a Trunk-LOC from http://www.PAC-audio.com because it gives a remote output (you use this to switch on the amp) whenever there is sound on the speakers.
Since this is a new chevy it has retained accessory (power for radio stays on when the key is out of the ignition), this would be a good way to go, because RAP (retained accessory power) is usually controlled through the computer, and can't be tapped into easily.
(The JL, RF and Re-Q all have signal sensing remote output too)
You'll need 17 feet of power wire to get from the battery to the amp and a fuse rated for whatever the wire is rated for. An amp kit is a good way to go, and is often cheaper than piecing together all the supplies.
You'll need speaker wire to go from the amp to the subs.
You'll need a ground, as short as possible, mounted to clean unpainted metal.
The adapters people are talking about are for keeping your Bose amp system and OnStar working if you were to replace it with a deck. It's not going to effect a high-level amp install.
question:
Beginner sewing- What are the basics I will need to deck out my sewing room? Also,sewing machine recomendation
I want to sew my own clothes. Stuff that looks normal, professional and not too home-made.I am seeking to sew shirts, skirts and would love tips on how to sew jeans and denim skirts, too. I know you have to start simple, but what are the basic items I will need to create my own clothes? machine, material, string, scissors, pins, and what else? Please recommend brands of material, especially Earth friendly stuff.
What is the hardest thing about sewing? the easiest thing to make? What is a good way to start and what materials are required and which are extra? Thank you so much in advance!
answer:
The basics are a table or floor with a hard finish, scissors, tape measure, chalk pencil, pins, some needles for hand sewing for those little details you can not do on a sewing machine.
Brands in those are not really important.
Scissors should be reasonable good, but I have used a pair for years, never a fail, and have seen pairs being worn in a year.
Most professional made clothing is done on simple machines. They can do straight stitch.
Check your own wardrobe, often that is the only stitch used.
A good beginners machine can do zigzag and buttonholes too.
There are many machines that have many fancy stitches, most are never used.
Generally people advice to buy an older but basicly more expensive machine second hand from a good dealer near you. The shop will be helpful and sell you a good machine, hoping you will come back to them to buy a new machine when you found you like sewing. They get these machines as people trade them in for new machines.
For thread, I would buy a roll of thread with each project for the start. That way you build up a collection. You can get cheap kits with 25 colours, they do not satisfy.
You can start with just black and white, and that are the colours you will mostly use anyhow.
You will need to buy fabrics and patterns too, the same shop can also sell you thread.
A good way to get experience is to join a class, often the shops that sell the sewing machines do know or even give classes. That will get you over the first difficulties, teach you how to use your machine and you will have people to fall back on when you get stuck later.
There are many tools and other extras that are mostly fancy, a class will also teach you about the tools they feel are needed.
question:
Need advice on fixing a deck?
So our home we bought has a nice decent decent? But you can tell it was painted, also looks like it may start to produce splinters soon and the paint they have made fade by this fall.
What products are best to make it look brand new? Or best as I can. I was the natural dark wood look, can I do this over the regular paint that's on there now? Also maybe something also that fills the wood from splinters.
I am not a pro and far from it but want to do this on my own and any help how to do it, what materials to use and products would be great. Thanks.
answer:
You can try cleaning it with a power washer. It may take a lot of the paint off. Start slow and learn how much pressure it can take. You don't want to blow holes in the wood. Get a sanding block (the 3M sanding sponges are nice for this. Around 120 grit is good) and sand any splinters. Then finish it with a penetrating finish. Surface finishes like varnish and paint aren't good on a deck. I don't know that I would get too caught up in getting all of the paint off. It will come off on its own before too long. I would clean and seal every year or two. The most important areas to seal are the horizontal surfaces like the decking. Vertical rails and such are less likely to get water damage due to sitting water.
question:
We are replacing the back deck on our house.?
We have patio doors going outside from the family room as well as a back door (now a stoop) going outside from the kitchen. Should we extend the new back deck to include both exits? (deck would then extend the whole back of the house) Thanks for any advice!
We have to replace the back stoop also.
Both exits are on the same wall.
answer:
Without knowing the layout, it's hard to say. If you bbq a lot, and would be using that kitchen door to go to the deck, then you might want access to the deck from the kitchen. Are both exits on the same wall? If so, then definitely extend it to blend the area. But if your talking about wrapping a deck around a corner just to have access to the kitchen door, I wouldn't. Decks are expensive to build, and unless you're using composite materials you will be maintaining a huge space for the rest of your stay in your home. They're pretty though! I hope this helps your decision. :)
question:
Would it be foolish to take a flat bottomed boat on the ocean?
I'm in the process of building a boat (still in the designing process), and would like to know if it would be foolish to take a flat bottomed sailboat (four feet wide, twelve feet long) on the ocean. I understand that it would be downright stupid to take it out in very choppy water, as it will ride every wave as opposed to a V-hulled boat which will cut through the water, but on a calm day would it be possible to take it out, taking into account that regardless of how calm it was there would have to be some wind since it's a sailboat? It's not truly flat, as there will be a small keel, but not that much of one. I'm not looking to go on any long voyages with it, at the most maybe six miles. Any help or other advice would be greatly appreciated.
answer:
Well, not knowing what you are 'designing' - it is difficult to say. However, if you are designing something other then what resembles a large & unsinkable surf board or wind surfer, and you expect to stay dry - I would say it won't happen - at least not with the dimensions & little information you've given. .
If indeed you expect to stay dry, then yes, it would be foolish - here is why:
1. Flat bottom vessels loose much far too much buoyancy when heeling. This is why sailboat hulls are more round, or tube shaped at mid-center, so they don't loose buoyancy when heeling or turning.
2. Your 'free-board' is far too short. If you have a 4 ft width, your free-board is most likely 2 ft or less.
3. Swells are far deeper - travel much faster, and are much more powerful then you think. While you are thinking you will 'ride' the waves - it simply will not happen on your return to shore with a following sea - in fact, a following sea will either push or swamp your vessel.
The key elements in the stability of a sailboat consist of it's 'rounded' hull shape, it's high free-board, it's deep and/or heavy keel, and it's heeling buoyancy. . . What you describe has none of these.
I live & voyage an average of 9,000 miles a year on my little 33 footer - and I can tell you for sure, even when it looks calm "out there" most often on calm days, the rolling swells exceed 2 feet - in a flat bottom, sail powered vessel, you will never be able to turn around without swapping your vessel. My vessel's free-board (height between water line and top side of deck) at it's shortest height is 4 ft. - when I make a 180 degree turn, the water is within inches of spilling over on the deck. If I catch the wrong angle of a swell or loose speed in the turn, the ocean often spills over on the deck. . . in a flat bottom vessel, your vessel will not be near so buoyant when heeled - and in fact could easily loose all it's free-board & swamp or capsize.
Here is a link - while I 'highly recomend' you use a set of their plans - it nothing else, look at their sailboat plans - and read about what makes their 'ocean' capable vessels unique.
http://www.glen-l.com/
Here is another link - it will help you understand the 'huge' difference in a flat bottom vs round or full displacment hull - there are two pages on this link you need to view:
http://www.boatsafe.com/kids/021598kidsques.htm
http://www.boatsafe.com/kids/022298hulls.htm
PS. I built boats for over 40 years - and if you want to really build something you will be extremely proud of - I strongly suggest you pick a set of plans from GLEN-L - believe me, what little you pay for the plans you will save in materials & mistakes. . . There are many, many reasons particular boats are designed the way they are, and strengthened in places you may never guess. So, build a couple using proven designs - then, if you desire, break out and design your own.
question:
Can I use bleach to clean composite (ChoiceDek) deck?
We built a deck from grey composite material sold by Lowes through ChoiceDek brand name. I see a lot of advice about cleaning decks with bleach. Is it safe for composite? If not, please suggest alternatives. ChoiceDek is supposed to be maintenance free, but our deck receives a lot of abuse from trees around it - lots of stains from sap, leaves, mold, etc. Help? Thanks!
answer:
Yes it's safe. I have about 2000 sf of the same decking and have used bleach. There are a couple products out that will help as the multiple issues you have explained won't be handled by just one.
Start with TSP (Trisodium Phosphate) available at Lowes. It will clean up most of the issues. It's a powder you mix in a bucket with water. Put it on with a mop and get any tough spots with a broom.
Clean up any sap with mineral spirits thinner (not paint or lacquer thinner). Mineral spirits won't hurt your deck and is also available at lowes.
If you still have any mold or mildew left bleach and water or "60 Seconds" which is a more powerful bleach available at Lowes. Make sure you rinse well after the TSP before using the bleach products as they don't mix well.
That should take care of most any dirt, mold, or sap problems you have.
All of the above is tried and tested on my own deck with no ill effects. It's a beautiful as the day we installed it.
question:
Does anyone know how to easily remove and replace deck boards? Is there a special tool to remove them?
Seems like the difficult part is the beginnning when you try to remove the nails?
answer:
It would depend on how the boards are fastened to the deck. If they are screwed in I would recommend a cordless drill driver with a hex bit that fits the fastener. I would caution you that in doing it this way that you want to exercise care and keep the pressure firm and gently squeezing the trigger so as not to strip the fastener.
If on the other hand they are nailed in, you simply need to get a pry bar/crow bar under the boards and pry them up and away from the framing of the deck......
And the most special tool of them all might come in handy: which is simply a claw hammer......or a persuader as it is sometimes referred to..........
replacement is Simply a matter of getting the correct size lumber and reattaching it....Chances are good that the boards you are replacing are treated....Pick out the driest that you can find, it will prevent warping to a large extent.....Also when nailing/screwing back in ensure the fasteners are spaced far enough apart to further prevent warping...
Which if warping is the problem you are trying to correct you might just want to remove the warped boards and turn them over and reattach them........
It is easy no matter the procedure........If you have a non- home depot/Lowe's source for material I would recommend purchasing there as it is often impossible to get good advice at the "Giants"....Basically they suck.......
question:
Building decks: What do I need to know before getting started?
We're moving to our first house in a couple of months (and i'm probably getting ahead of myself) but at some point, we'd like to put a deck out in the backyard. What kind of material holds up the best, should we try doing this ourselves or hire a professional? Are they easy to install?
Any advice is appreciated, thank you in advance!
answer:
You can do this yourself, but having someone else do anything for you most always is easier...
For the structure you have to use a decay resistant material, i.e. green treat or cedar. And for the decking if cost is no object I like the time tested Trex material. It is expensive but like I said.... time tested. I couldn't afford it so I have cedar... however, also time tested ;)
Trex also has a great deck design tool online. after you finish your design it will give you a material list and also a 3 dimension view of your deck. It kinda gives you an idea on the construction.
Before you begin you should make a visit to the city where you live. They will have a packet of information on minimum standards for your deck. Also they would have a worksheet on how much deck you can have.
Visit the trex website for all sort of deck info.
Good luck!
question:
How can I go about publishing tarot cards?
I'm still working on the details here: (furry-card-movement.deviantart.com)
I am an anthro artist who is finding other talented artists to create a way to donate for a cause (which cause is still unknown) and we were going to make a deck of tarot cards and sell them at conventions and online. Is there a publishing company that could help us create the cards/boxes? And how much would it be?
answer:
If you're really serious about this enterprise, I wish you all the best. Creating a (good) tarot deck is a hard feat - making art for all 72 individual unique cards, making sure they're all meaningful and stylistically cohesive, etc. is a big challenge. I can think of one company who publishes a lot of New Age material, including many many books on the Tarot - Llewelyn. They migt be especially useful to look into because they have lower standards than other tarot publishers, as some of the tarot books they've published aren't very good, so even if your deck isn't strictly perfect it still has a chance.
Otherwise, I'd suggest you go surfing around the art world for others who have done something similar to what you want to achieve - created a themed tarot deck of their own. I know of at least one on deviantart - Ellygator created a fabulous Harry Potter tarot deck and got it published. If you want to see it, or contact her, here's the link to her gallery: http://ellygator.deviantart.com/gallery/#HP-Tarot
Just search a bit, I'm sure that there are plenty out there who've done it and who would be happy to share some advice with you about how you can make your vision come to life.
question:
How do you fit spindles onto stairs?
Could anyone provide me with a helpsheet, website or advice on how to fit spindles onto my staircase?
At the moment i have a handrail, end posts and baseboard but it is covered with material. Would i only need to buy the spindles or replace the lot?
answer:
I made a jig for drilling the holes in the handrail; you have to make sure they will be straight relative to the base, not the handrail. make sure your holes are a few inches longer than the spindles and that you can insert each spindle far enough into the handrail in order to set the spindle base correctly on the baseboard. Dry fit each spindle before applying glue. Use a little bit of wood glue on the top and bottom of each spindle and fasten each end with a brad. Repeat and repeat and repeat......
see more : http://www.ultimatehandyman.co.uk/diy/decking/fitting_spindles.htm
question:
How to build a model bridge?
I wanted to create a model bridge of the golden gate bridge, how to i go about starting this project. What materials do i use, etc?
I could do that or design my own bridge, but i dont know where to begin on that project either. Any advice on this issue as well.
answer:
The Golden Gate Bridge is no simple structure, I can see why finding a good starting point may be difficult.
You need to consider the following when you are building a model, particularly architectural, structural....
>Scale - what ratio to the actual bridge will it be?
>Weight - can your model be lightweight, or does it need to be heavy and durable?
>Aesthetics - how eye-appealing does the final model have to be, is it simple or detailed? colorful or plain?
To keep things reasonable, I bet you'd want to scale it down a great deal, and also keep it lightweight, but sturdy enough that is won't collapse. Create a good base that could act as a single platform for the project that way you can mount all the towers on one piece and it won't bend out of shape or twist. Try using a piece of 1/4" plywood, or maybe even some foam board.
For the bridge, I'd suggest working with balsa wood. This is a great, lightweight material that you can find at your local hobby store. The beauty with balsa wood is that you can cut it with a modeling knife to the size you need, and it also comes in a variety of shapes and sizes.
Because the Golden Gate Bridge is a suspension bridge you will need curved sections and cables. You could use string, or fishing line. A lightweight wire might even work if you use something other than balsa wood. Matte board would make for a nice bridge deck, flat, light, and easy to cut.
Designing you own bridge would be a cool challenge, but there are an endless number of styles you could use. This will require some creativity and planning. If you are short on time, consider modeling the GGB, that way, you can use measurements and pictures to guide your building process. If it's your first model, having pictures to follow never hurts.
If you have trouble with materials and the professional look doesn't matter, you could always turn to pipe cleaners and K'NEX
question:
Is Blue Eyes White Dragon a good card still?
My friend wanted to trade it for my Number 39 : Utopia that I got in an XYZ deck. Should I trade?
answer:
blue eyes is still one of my fave and although it got a great atk its defence can be overpowered (but its hard) now i would trade if the blue eyes is in great condition cause lets see the pros and cons. pros well you get blue eyes and he is easier to summon then 39
cons people will do anthying to get that mofo off the field
o and word of advice i would consider not letting your friend to a whole lot fo tradin except this one GO FOR THE BLUE EYES MAN (p.s. blue eyes is common and 39 is i think rare but still blue eyes is better) o a pro about 39 is he can negate a attack but ony twice, and if one of you uses monster reborn to bring 39 back he cant negate attacks or declare a attack (im not sure if its destroyed when it has no material)
question:
How do whole house fans and attic fans compare?
I would rather install a good attic fan to push air directly outside -- instead of the whole house fan that is pushing air into my attic. What are the pros and cons of each of these options? Or can the whole house fan be ducted directly to an outside wall or the roof. I have a hipped roof, but gables a few gable walls in the front of the house...any ideas?
answer:
An "attic" fan, and a 'whole house' fan serve different functions.
The 'attic' fan, is of course used to help pull the trapped, heated (and often moisture laden) air out of the attic space. There are usually vents in the eaves or soffetts, to allow fresh air into the attic space. This helps extend the life of a typical shingled roof. Attics with no ventilation will quite literally, cook the decking, and roofing materials. An attic fan does not normally have any vents to the living quarters of the home itself...there is no exchange of air between the habitable portion, and the attic space. Most attic fans have a thermocouple switch (they come on when a built in thermostat registers the heat), and are automatic, and often low volume. A typical attic fan will burn about as much electricity as a standard 100 watt light bulb. The fan itself is often mounted inside the vent stack itself on top of the roof.
A 'whole house' fan, serves the purpose to pull fresh air thru the living quarters themselves. They are often vented to the attic, but not always (some are mounted on an end wall for example). These fans are also much larger than typical attic fans, and will pull a higher volume of air thru the home. It is important to note that if you have one installed to vent to the attic... you must make sure you have adequate venting to the exterior from the attic....or you're going to be trying to blow the attic up like a balloon, hehehe.. and it will not be as efficient as it could be. When the whole house fan is not operating, there is no benefit to your attic space from it, (assuming it is vented thru the attic space) and heat and moisture can build up inside the attic.
My advice would be to make certain the attic is adequately vented, whether you install a fan or not for that purpose.... you can use passive ventilation techniques, turbines, etc, instead of an electrically powered ventilation fan.
If you are looking for a way to cool the 'living space' of the home, then you want a whole house fan, not an 'attic fan'. You might try 2 or 3 window fans, in upstairs windows first.. theyre not expensive, and you can mimic the whole house fan effect, by using them to blow out the window. The key to this type of ventilation is to have the fan up high, and open some windows down low, so that the fan pulls the cooler air up thru the home. I'd try the window fans before I invested in a whole house fan, to see if I liked it. (I prefer an air conditioner myself, hehehe)
Have Fun
question:
Any advice on patching a cement driveway?
Our cement driveway has really taken a beating. It has large cracks and it is pitted from salt dripping off of the car in the winter. I've used the rubbery liquid stuff in the cracks and it shrinks and looks worse than ever. Can I do a skim coat of cement over the whole thing? We can't afford to replace it right now.
answer:
Yikes! No matter how tempting, stay away from the skim-coat of concrete idea. Unless you lay down a good four inches, it will crack up like peanut brittle.
I resurfaced a concrete deck over a garage that had cracks everywhere and was leaking. The job had to be perfect, so I did a huge amount of research, and found a urethane-based product line that worked great. The job was in Florida, so I had a lot of expansion and contraction, and the material had to be flexible enough to move, and hard enough to make a good deck. The products met these requirements, and more.
There is a rubber compound you mix up and apply to pits and cracks, and a urethane coating that is rolled on for a finish. It is a bit slick, so you will need to add an abrasive in the mix for skid-proofing.
The name of the product is Sanitred @ www.sanitred.com. They ship in about three days after your on-line order and are very helpful.
Good luck on your project!
question:
pine tongue and grove porch floor stain it semitransparent or traditional paint?
Its my front porch. Completely covered except the steps up from the sidewalk. Which presents another question, i am re-doing my sidewalk, stamped concrete or something like pennsylvania blue stone? Should i do the steps to porch in wood or concrete or stone - whichever material i end up using.
I am tearing up the old 2x6 pressure treated floor, looks too deck-like for front porch and replacing with tongue and groove PINE to give it a more elegant look, i hope.
Thank you for your advice and expertise!
answer:
I'd stain the wood semi-transparent, and see how you like that. If after a while you don't like it, you can always paint it. If you paint it first, you can't go back and stain it in the event you don't like the paint. As for the steps, the same wood as the porch would look better, especially if you have a wood frame house. Steps are usually made to match the porch, not the walkway.
Be aware though that if you use an oil based stain on the wood, you may not be able to use latex paint on it if you decide to paint it at a later date. You'll need to check with your paint store, or the manufacturer of the paint, or stain, and see if you have to use an oil based paint.
question:
Can I get some help with my YuGiOh Cards?
Hey. I been building a strong beatdown deck and I don't really know many strong Lv. 4 monsters with 1900atk or more. I want to know a lot of them like Luster Dragon, Gemini Elf, Goblin Attack Force, etc. Please enlighten me and give me some advice on what kind of beatdown deck I should get. Thanks.
answer:
These are some good cards that are not banned that are good in a Beatdown deck:
Evil Hero Malicious Edge
Elemental Hero Stratos
Super Conductor Tyranno
Zaborg the Thunder Monarch
Cyber Dragon
Beast King Barbaros
Gene-Warped Warwolf
Slate Warrior
Berserk Gorilla
Spear Dragon
Chainsaw Insect
Goblin Attack Force
Goblin Elite Attack Force
Skill Drain
Axe of Despair
Mage Power
Shrink
Great Maju Garzett
Royal Decree
Curse of Darkness
Dark Snake Syndrome or Final Countdown
Magic Cylinder
Jinzo
White-Horned Dragon
Prime Material Dragon
Horus the Black Flame Dragon LV6
Dark Ruler Ha Des
Thunder King Rai-Oh
question:
how are ways I can prepare for the SAT years in advance?
Hi!
I am currently going into 8th grade, and I want to start studying for the SATs. I have 4 older siblings in college or beyond, so I feel the importance of doing well on the SATs. What are ways I can start studying now? I cant do much for the subject matter, since I haven't learn the matter yet. I am starting to learn Vocabulary with an online website for SAT prep. But I feel like this inst a lot? is there really anything else I can do?
also, when will I be able to take the SATs? like in what grade? thanks!
answer:
Hi Amw,
Have you heard that the SAT is changing in 2015? So even if you start studying now, some of the material you study might not be on the test when you take it (which we recommend not doing until the spring of your junior year). And there might be a whole bunch of new material that no one knows about yet! We're all kind of in the dark.
But if the test wasn't changing, this would be my advice:
Since you are studying so early, I'd recommend starting with vocab. I highly recommend studying the first 4 decks in our FREE Repeat Offender Vocabulary Words Flash Card series (http://www.powerscore.com/sat/help/content_flashcards_vocab.cfm). The most popular words in these decks (like aesthetic, undermine, and ambiguous), appear on up to 50% of SATs, so you are sure to see them throughout your studies.
I'd also start practicing reading now. This is the hardest area in which to improve, but the most impressive high score you can submit. You need to become comfortable with dry, boring passages, and learn how to maintain focus while reading them. The website (http://www.powerscore.com/sat/help/reading_comp_practice.cfm) will direct you to some magazines that have passages like this. Read one a day and try to find the main idea and author's attitude.
You may also want to receive the SAT question of the Day service from the College Board (http://sat.collegeboard.org/practice/sat-question-of-the-day). This is a great way to keep your skills honed and ensure daily practice.
When you are ready to start practicing with timed sections, the most important and accurate book is The Official SAT Study Guide (aka the Blue Book) from the College Board. This is the only book with real test questions. If you find that you are struggling with a section, then you can look into prep books by third party companies.
I hope that helps!
Vicki
question:
how to build steps for a mobile home?
Or how to I build a porch for a mobile home
answer:
Having done both and having lived in 3, I suggest certainly you can get books and advice from major Home stores, but it might be to your advantage in time, energy, and monetary expense to consider wrought iron, pre made, specific to mobiles.
A Porch is another matter, and certainly may need permits?
An easy method I use often is concrete footers, poured into 2 ft deep holes, then Pier Block (Adjustable bracket type) 2 x 6 or 2 x 8 treated lumber for the framework, 4 x 4 treated lumber for the supports, and either the 5/8,,, 7/8,,, or 2 x material for the deck itself.
Depending on the total size, and the weight load, I usually do "joists" 24 inches on center, with bracing perpendicular at 24 inches as well. I use carriage bolts to secure all the framework, and perhaps galvanized "hangers", and galvanized decking screws of an appropriate length to secure the decking material.
I also "Treat" after the fact with something like "Thompsons".
Steven Wolf
question:
Advice on laying a flagstone patio?
I want to take off my old wooden deck and put down a flagstone patio. I'll have to fill the post holes and prepare the ground underneath. What are the materials I'll need and what do I need to do to make sure the stones will sit flat and that no weeds will grow up between them? The soil is basically clay.
Anyone out there who has tackled this job that can give me some tips?
Thanks!
answer:
Dig down 8" and remove what earth is there now back fill with crushed stone to a depth of 4" on top of this you can lay a sheet of weed blocker or heavy plastic now on top of this you'll need paving sand/grit or sharp sand don't use normal sand as this can become waterlogged and result in your flags sinking and you need to incorporate a fall in the bedding so as when you lay the flags they'll be slightly sloped away from the house for surface water run off you can fill the joints with a mortar mix 4:1 sand and cement or use polymeric sand again this sand is better for jointing as it is sharper and knits together better to hold the flags in place over the long run and weeds won't penetrate it either ok,good luck.
question:
Suggestions to better my Red Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon Deck?
Just playing yugioh with my friends, so not worried about banned cards. Trying to build a dragon deck and this is what I've come up with so far. Any advice on how to change things to make it better would be great.
Monsters: (LV. 4)
2x Lord of D.
3x Red-eyes Wyvern
3x Alexandrite Dragon
1x Blizzard Dragon
1x Dodger Dragon
2x Masked Dragon
1x Red-Eyes B. Chick
1x Divine Dragon Ragnarok
1x Blast Sphere
(Lv 5+):
1x Wattaildragon
1x Summoned Skull
1x White Horned Dragon
1x Prime Material Dragon
3x Red-Eyes Darkness Metal Dragon
1x White Night Dragon
1x Red-Eyes Black Dragon
Spells:
Heavy Storm, Fissure, 2x Flute of Summoning Dragon, Monster Reborn, 2x Dragon's Mirror, 2x Future Fusion, Mystical Space Typhoon, Swords of revealing light, stamping destruction
Traps:
Sakuretsu Armor, 2x Trap Jammer, Spellbinding circle, Mirror Force, Magic Cylinder, Ordeal of a Traveler, trap hole, The Dragon's Bead, Dragon's Rage
Fusion Deck:
B. Skull Dragon
King Dragun
answer:
Add: R E Darkness Dragon, because for every dragon in your graveyard, it gains x300 attack points, similar to BESD
question:
can i keep a fig tree in a pot?
my friend gave me a fig tree last summer its not very big would it be ok to keep it in a large flower pot as we only have a small garden. what type of soil should i use and how will it fair with the British weather.Any advice please thank you.
answer:
Plastic, clay, even wooden planters or half barrels will do fine for potting up fig trees. Porous materials such as clay will dry out quicker and require more frequent watering. Also, be careful with black or dark colored pots that may absorb too much heat and stress the plants. Smaller containers are okay for young trees, but move up to 15 or 20 gallon containers to accommodate the trees as they grow and increase in size.
Potting Soil: Use a light potting mix, but not an overly rich one to plant your fig tree in. Incorporate amendments such as sifted compost, vermiculite, worm castings, perlite and even builder s sand to lighten the mix and ensure that it will drain well. Your choice of a lightweight mix will also make things easier when it is time to move the container to shelter during winter.
Great Surroundings: Find a warm spot with plenty of sunlight for your potted fig tree to soak up. The plants are ornamental and tropical looking, making them an attractive addition to the patio, deck, or even a balcony. A sun room or unheated greenhouse can be a great location for your fig tree provided that there is plenty of ventilation during the heat of summer.
Feeding Your Fig: Figs are not heavy feeders, so select a slow release organic fertilizer that is high in phosphorus and low in nitrogen to use when feeding your containerized fig trees. Bone meal is one commonly used organic source of phosphorus for garden plants.
Watering the Trees: As mentioned earlier, the type of container used can influence how often your fig tree will need to be watered. Your climate and high temperatures can also create the need for more frequent visits with the watering can. Provided the container has good drainage, over watering potted figs shouldn t be much of a concern for you.
Pruning and Training: Fig trees are thought to enjoy having their root system somewhat constricted, but potted trees may still need to be root pruned once every three years or so. Whenever you root prune be sure to prune the top growth also to balance the foliage to the reduced root structure. Even in a container fig trees can easily reach well over seven tall and grow almost as wide.
Winter Protection: In cold climates DO NOT leave your potted fig tree outdoors in the winter. Fig tree roots that would survive the winter if planted in the ground may not be as fortunate when over-wintering in an exposed container. Moving the plant into an unheated building or garage will allow you to maintain the tree s shape and encourage earlier fruiting. Water the fig tree sparingly once every three of four weeks during winter storage. The dormant tree does not need any light and can be stored in a total darkness.
question:
How expensive is to replace a flat roof of a building that uses a membrane?
square foot costs
answer:
Glued down membrane (25 year warranty on membrane) on a new roof runs as much as .50 sf in my part of the country. Overall size of the roof, penetrations, flashings, and other factors will add to that cost. A membrane with gravel on top will also add to the total.
Depending on the circumstances, tearoff can easily run another .50 square foot. The replacement of water damaged roof decking due to leaks can add to that cost. Also keep in mind that waste disposal fees are extremely high in some parts of the country and can quickly add to the cost.
Best advice is to determine your specifications and then have three reputable roofing companies submit bids on exactly the same job using the same materials. With comparable bids in hand, you can make an educated buying decision.
Good luck with your project.
question:
What am I allowed and not allowed to mail over seas?
My best friend is a german exchange student and now lives in germany again :( and I need to know what I can and cannot send her.
also how long does it take...any advice will help
oh i am from USA and she is from Germany is that may help
answer:
According to the US Postal Service international mailing manual (see link below) the following items are prohibited from being sent to Germany:
Absinthe.
Arms and weapons.
Articles bearing political or religious notations on the address side.
Human remains.
Live plants and animals.
Melatonin.
Perishable infectious biological substances.
Playing cards, except in complete decks properly wrapped.
Pulverized coca beans.
Radioactive materials.
The importation of medicines requires special authorization by the German authorities.
question:
I need some advice on painting my aluminum boat?
I recently bought a used aluminum boat and it looks pretty rough. I was just wondering how would i go about painting it? The previous owner also put some silicon around some areas and i was wondering how would i smooth them out so that it looks good. I was also wondering if i could just scrape all the silicone off and just get those areas welded? What do you think?
For the inside of the boat someone told me that i should try and use the spray on truck bed liner? Would that be a good or bad idea?
answer:
Get a TIG welder and do it correctly. Aluminum vessels use Aluminum Rivets or are Welded properly.
Just be very very careful, Aluminum is very very toxic material when heated. The dust from sanding/scraping it can cause all sorts of problems.
If it were my boat and was failing that bad, I would scrap it and use the monies, plus some savings to get a decent vessel in good condition and USCG approved.
I think you are talking about Rhino Liner, may as well use that goofy Flex Seal junk, will last a season, then will fail, miserably.
Any paint on any surface requires proper preparation, time and knowledge. If the vessel is 14', you will have more $ in repairs and supplies than the thing is worth.
And then it would be a repaired vessel that might not be stable enough to do hull speed.
If you are planning on using an OB motor on it, the transom, that is the back should be carefully examined for weaknesses and defects.
If any scraping is to be done, let the person that is doing the welding do that.
Always get an estimate.
That is what I know.
The bed liner is a bad idea, yeah it kinda works for Decks, but is designed to be applied with Primer and Base onto Steel or Sheet Metal. Not many Truck Beds are Aluminum.
There are Marine outlets that sell the correct chemicals for that, just be careful.
question:
ok im a maid of honor in a wedding and well i wanted to get ideas for a bachelorette party?
so i need ideas for the bachelorette party like games i guess or what do u do at one and also is a bachelorette party the same as a bridal shower? and if not what is a bridal shower? and what do u do at it?
answer:
The bridal shower is often more of a formal gathering involving the friends and family (usually strictly females) of the bride-to-be. The bachelorette party is more of a let-loose celebration involving only the bride's closest girlfriends and is usually a much smaller party than the bridal shower.
I've done both bridal showers and bachelorette parties. Some ideas:
Bridal Shower:
Do a garden theme. We celebrated my best friend's bridal shower in the back yard of her aunt's house. Ahead of time, we had all of the guests suggest one thing they thought was essential for a happy marriage (love, patience, communication, trust, etc.). We prepared a stone walkway leading down the lawn to the chair where she would be sitting, and each of those stones had one of the suggestions written on it. Beneath the stone we wrote the name of the person who made the suggestion for a happy marriage. At the end of the party, we were sure to wash off the stones and place them in a nice box before giving them to her. The stones served as a beautiful decoration for the party and a sentimental keepsake she could take home.
We distributed cheap, but gorgeous hand-held fans as party favors. Our food included her favorite dishes, made by her family, and the table beneath the tent had a cupcake tree. The cupcakes were decorated with icing to look like flowers, emphasizing our garden theme.
We decorated the fences and deck railing with pretty, colorful butterflies we found in the discount store and with tulle and a banner boasted the reason for the gathering.
At the bridal shower, we ate, talked (like a regular party), played games, opened gifts, and snapped photos.
Some games you can play at bridal showers include:
* Going around the circle and asking all of the married ladies to share one piece of marital advice, and the single ladies to share a wish for the engaged couple.
* Bridal Bingo! You can find variations of this (and printable materials) online.
* Pass a spool of thread down the circle, encouraging each person to unwrap a thread of any length they wish before breaking it off. After each lady in the circle has her own length of thread, tell them they must now share a story with the group - their favorite memory of the bride-to-be. As they tell the story, they must wrap the thread around their finger. They can't stop talking until the thread is fully wrapped around their fingers! This makes for some great stories, especially from those greedy ladies who took more thread than the others!.
Bachelorette parties:
My favorite is always the girl's-night-out theme. I don't think I've ever celebrated a bachelorette party before 9 PM. Some ideas:
* Buy some party items and hit the town!
We buy buttons that boast what we're celebrating, outfitting the bride-to-be in a special get up herself. We usually make her wear a veil with condoms attached. We all wear something embarassing and daring (like one time we wore penis charms on chains around our necks. Get crazy! :P
Just hit the town! Go to her favorite late-night hotspots - bars, late dinner, clubs, etc. Everywhere you go, be wild, crazy and tell everyone that you're celebrating her last night of freedom! (great way to get a ton of free stuff for her, by the way :P)
Take tons of photos! Meet people. I remember we celebrated one bachelorette party during fleet week in NYC. That was a blast! ;-)
I love the card games where you select a card that has a dare on it. We'd end up having to do things like: ask a stranger to buy us a drink, hit the dance floor with a goofy dance, etc. Makes for some fun times!
For our last bachelorette party, we hit a comedy club. It was the BEST time ever. We got some great laughs, had the spotlight on her for a while, since the comedian outed the bride-to-be (hard not to notice, considering her veil!). After that we hit the town a bit.
Kind of lengthy, I know, but I hope these ideas helped a bit.
Just have fun with it! :) Good luck!!!
question:
Second floor construction advice?
So I'm putting in a second floor in my garage, this space will be used for a gym/lounge area. The gym won't be extensive about 150lbs of dumbbells, treadmill and an upright kick boxing bag maybe a couch. It's a 16' span with no center supports, the research I've dug up is saying 2x10 but hoping I could use 2x6. I'm not objective to the 2x10 I would just have to relocate some lights. Any advise is greatly appreciated.
answer:
If your research indicates that 10" joist are required it would make a lot of sense to use them. Make certain the load charts where you determined the joist depth has allowed for the dynamic load of the materials and live weights instead of just a static loads. A factor of two to one is not unreasonable for dynamic loading verses static loads. ie a dropped 150 lb weight could create a 300 lb dynamic load.
In addition to moving some lights you may also want to consider your solution to the condition where the 2 x 10's rest on the top plates of the walls. Your 2 x 10's should have full bearing on the plate. 2 x 6 plate = 5 and a half inches bearing. Also the 2 x 10's should not be reduced in size over the plate. They should be the full 2 x 10 depth or their capacity will be reduced. (Issue - will the 2 x 10 clear the roof deck?)
question:
I'm trying to build a Yu-Gi-Oh dragon deck, that is good for tag dueling and has prime material dragon in it.?
I'm playing Yu-Gi-Oh over the nexus and have a bit of a problem with Tag dueling.
My favorite card is prime material dragon. therefore I'd like to build a Tag duel dragon deck, with prime material dragon in it.
However, those which I tried, don't seem to work properly.
Could someone please give me some advice?
answer:
If you run a Disaster Dragon build, your deck is already good enough to tag duel. Combo a disaster deck with a black wing or any other decks that swarm and you've got a good duel ahead of you.
That is of course, you run disaster dragons. I would need to see your deck list to give you advice.
Also keep in mind you can't center a deck to be mainly tag duel, as for there are no cards in yu-gi-oh that help or hinder a tag duel.
question:
Where are some stores that sell ramps? My grandmother is in a wheelchair and she needs a ramp.?
I'm leaving to go back to Michigan and she lives in TN. I know she's going to need help, but she'll be okay as long as she gets a ramp.
answer:
Generally a ramp has to be built by a contractor (or even a local handyman) since each entrance door is different, and rails must be included also. I've never heard of pre-built ramps, and I've built many of those ramps myself when I was a contractor, from the very small to one that was nearly the size of a deck.
Just be sure that whomever builds it is EXPERIENCED in wheelchair ramps and truly understands the requirements. Ask for references, and TALK TO THOSE PEOPLE. I cannot emphasize this enough.
Even the local climate affects how a ramp will work. If you get a reasonable amount of rain, or especially ice or snow, it should be at a lower angle than others, and you MUST have some sort of traction device on those ramps, even little wooden cleats, or a shingle-like material, so the wheelchair won't slip back while going uphill, or slide down dangerously. You also need little guide rails on the whole thing to keep the wheels from going off the edge. It may not seem necessary, but it truly is. The exact angle of the ramp is absolutely critical.
Rails have to conform with the building code, but also should be helpful to the wheelchair user -- sometimes a second rail down lower is a good answer, and doesn't add much to the cost if designed properly.
Also, there needs to be plenty of "turn around" room at the top, near the door, for both the wheelchair, a second person helping them, and perhaps packages or groceries they are carrying. It doesn't cost much to build something a foot or so bigger near the door, and is usually worth it.
Usually, when I built a ramp, I did just the bare ramp first and had the handicapped individual go up and down it a few times, even with the hose running on the ramp (to simulate rain), while two of us walked alongside as "spotters," before the rails or other stuff went on. It's easier to fix little problems in design early, and unless the person can really use it, it's worthless. Each person in a wheelchair is different, some much weaker, some stronger, some less or more coordinated. It must work for YOUR customer, and it's your job to ensure that. This takes time, and close coordination with the user, and only an experienced builder will know how to factor this into the job. Some guy who just does this by the hour can stretch it out forever re-doing things that he should have worked into the plan early on. Wheelchair ramps are not a job for amateurs
There are a number of factors to consider that are not immediately obvious to the average carpenter or contractor. My advice is to contact a local handicapped group (they have different names), to get suggestions, and perhaps names of contractors they've used. After I did my first few ramps, most of my business came from referrals from that group since they liked my work.
question:
I play a few instruments, sing, write poetry etc...?
I want to get into making my own music. Can someone please tell me a reasonably inexpensive way to get into making hip hop type music please ? (Don't know if you know Lee Scratch Perry -- it's not really hip hop, more like acid reggae). I don't necessarily want to use samples from other artists, more play my own riffs and beats and mix in various instruments and vocals.
I am fairly inexperienced with computers but I have my own laptop.
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
answer:
Been there, done it.
Get into home recording, if you're not already.
Gather the tools and basic equipment as software programs, audio interfacing, or portable mixer/recording decks along with power amplifiers. Or, run off a stereo receiver that provides for those inputs.
Even some basic playback units and recording devices can provide reference and editing material you then can work with for accompaniments, saving and editing your works, as well as understanding how to make original compositions for masters.
question:
What was your breaking point in Basic Training?
I know the military is designed to break you down in order to rebuild you into military material..so what was your breaking point during basic training? How did you overcome it? What was the best part of completing basic training? Any advice for a girly girl who wants to join the army? Thanks:)
answer:
There was no breaking point. No in boot camp at least. The only breaking point I had was on deployment. We had been gone from home for four months, been out to sea for 44 days straight, and were working 22 hours a day in one of the most unforgiving atmospheres in the world: the flight deck of a US aircraft carrier. The "breaking point" came after working 26 days, 22 hours per day, straight. I had, literally, gotten only 15 hours of sleep in that 22 days. That will break anyone (except maybe a SEAL).
Granted, I may have been in the Navy but that doesn't really change anything (unless your a Marine). Boot camp is a breeze (again, unless your a Marine) and you shouldn't have a problem. As for being a girly girl? Get over that before you ship out or don't bother going. The Army doesn't have time for "girly girls". Not to mention guys in the military already have problems with females because of the special treatment. Don't let that dominate your time in boot camp or you'll be hated your whole time in.
