Decking Material: Best Decking Material Around Pool

question:

How has your Trex deck held up? Anybody have a Correct Deck? I want to compare the two to decide which to get?
My inground pool needs a new deck, and I want to get a composite type decking to avoid splinters and to hold up better around the pool. Can anybody tell me about their composite material decking and how well it has satisfied your needs?

answer:

I dont personally have one, but remember, a composit will be HOT in the Summer time!! Burning foot hot! Unlike wood deck, plastic gets hot and will expand, so leave a lot of room because it can expand a few inches in extreme heat.

You may even want to have a spray going over the deck at various times, so that you wont burn yourself and the kids.
Just put some drains under it, or put it over a rock bed, and have water spraying over the deck, going down into the gravel, into a drain so that it cools it...

Just my thoughts... (also, it keeps it from expanding and popping any nails or screws out too)..

Jesse

question:

Any suggestions on a good wood deck preservative coating?
I have a wood pressure treated deck around a pool with 700 sq ft. I am looking for a good non-solid coating material that will last 3 to 5 years. Most we tried from the home improvement stores don't seem to last past one season. Any suggestions on a product with several year endurance?
Including a high penetrating oil content.

answer:

There is a big 5 gallon can and it says UHG or something like that on it. However, you do have to do it about every other year. the wood shows through beautifully. You do power wash it before you roll it on.

I had heard so much good about Thompson Water seal, but I did not have any success with that at all. This other went on sort of cloudy but dried nicely and you could tell it was water repellant. It worked well It lasted longer than 2 years, but might have been more effective every other year. I hate to think of how long we had ours on. But where you have a lot of water, I'd think you would want to put it on every 2 years. I don't think I'd believe someone who told me more years than that with your situation with the water and whatever treatment you add.

question:

How much does it cost to build a deck around a pool?
I am buying an above ground pool(fogot the measurements but on of the larger oval ones)
I realize different locations will be different prices but anyone who build them or has got one built similar can you tell me around the cost it should be?

I want a deck built from my back door around the entire pool with enough room on one side for a grill and table and on the other enough room for a couple lay out chairs..then room for walking around easily the rest of it..

answer:

Depends on the overall size you need but work on a material price of around 80 per square mtr. That price will include all decking planks fixtures, frame work and supports, protective coatings and cost of getting the stuff. Labour would be extra cost.

question:

I have a "TREX" deck around my pool. How do I stop mushrooms from growing on its surface?
The "TREX" deck is a composite material. Is there a product that will easily remove the mushrooms or must I continue to scrape them off?

answer:

You can treat TREX with most anti-fungal treatments that you would for regular wood, or you can just clean your deck with Clorox Clean-up. It is a cleaner with bleach, so it will clean away the spores better than other products will.

question:

Is rebar needed for concrete swimming pool decking?
I am having an existing concrete deck torn out around my in ground pool and a new one poured, my contractor removed most of the big chunks of concrete but left a bunch, some small some large...
I ask him was he planning to remove the chunks and put down rebar, he said, "No, no one does that anymore" And he was going to pour the cemet over the chunks, does this sound okay?

answer:

Wire mesh reinforcing should be fine. All you need is to reduce cracking. All portland cement concrete cracks. Be sure no steel in the slab touches the ground or sticks out of the surface. It needs at least an inch of concrete under it and over it.

Be sure he leaves cracking control joints, and expansion joints if it is a large placement.

The old material should either be removed or beaten down into the base. You need a uniform thickness in the new work, and you don't want point loading. I.e. it should go down over a smooth surface of gravel.

Check out his history with the State. You will need his contracting license number, which any reputable contractor will have given you up front, but should be on his card, his paperwork and in any ads he has in phone book etc.

If you are afraid of calling him on deficient work, hire somebody to watch it for you. Ask the building inspector (if a permit is required) to tell you where to look for one.

question:

I want to install a deck with an above ground pool in my back yard. How much would that cost?
The deck(roughly 20x20 but probably bigger) will be built around the pool(roughly 15x15)and would be big enough for a few chairs and 1 table. The pool would be a standard round size unless I could fine a creative one or other shape.

I can not dig in my neighborhood so it has to be above ground!

How much would it cost for the entire project and how long do you think it would take to build? I will be doing this myself with help of my family. There will be no professional hired for the job.

answer:

I dont know about pool costs, but just the deck would cost you 1.200 $ and up + material

question:

How much would a 20x20 deck cost with a 8x12 rectangle above ground pool built into it?
I know the question is vauge, I don't expect an exact answer. I am thinking I can have the job completly done for around ,000, am I way off base? I would need to buy the pool as well. I basically want to square off part of my yard with deck and put it around the pool. I know the price can range alot.Thank you.
Thanks, I am in Staten Island,New York.

answer:

Costs vary widely depending where you live, what materials you use, how elaborate you want to get with the decks, etc. Your best bet is to call a few local contractors. Many are pretty hungry now, so you should be able to get a good price. As far as estimating, sight unseen, expect to pay between -30/sq. ft. for pressure treated, significantly more for cedar or composite. Be sure to get detailed bids and compare them closely. Ask for and check references. Remember that the low bid is not necessarily the best value. Hope this helps.

question:

Does anybody know how to use timber sleepers for decking?
G'day, I am planning on using timber sleepers to create a walkway around my pool, however, I am not to sure how to go about it; ie, How to prepare the surface to lay the timber and the best type of oil to use to prevent the wood from rotting. Thanks,

answer:

The hardest thing about laying down sleeper is to create a level finished surface. It requires a solid and level surface. This is done by excavating down to the clay, using a tamper to compress the clay and a layer of loose gravel raked and levelled.

Place down some landscape cloth to prevent grass and weeds from growing up through you walkway and lay down the sleepers. It might be a good idea to drill holes through the timbers and drive spikes or rebar through the holes into the ground to limit movement.

Then work down the walkway and level the timbers on both sides using shims. Its a detailed process which will be significantly easier with a laser level or transit; but an ordinary straight-edge and level will work. A little PL-400 on the shims should suffice as a way of securing the shims to the timbers.

The final stage is the cutting and placement of the decking material.

For all exterior wood projects, pressure-treated lumber is the best choice. However, any wood which comes in contact with the earth needs to be pressure treated. Most pressure treated lumber has a life-span of 25 years when exposed to the weather. Non-treated lumber has a life-expectancy of about half as long. You can extend the life of your walkway by using a thick tar-like sealant on the bottom and sides of the timbers, but it makes for a messy job.

question:

With what durable material can I replace slate on my pool deck?
We had our pool deck replaced 8 years ago. Part of it is slate. Unfortunately, although we sealed the slate, it has weather terribly and is now peeling off in sheets.

answer:

I hate to ask but is your pool a salt pool??

If it is, then I am truly sorry for you. You would be one of the multitudes that used sedimentary rock (salt causes it to spall or delaminate) around salt pool who have watched it disappear before their eyes!

You're welcome!!

question:

where can I find a really good repair patch for in ground vinyl pool?
I have an inground vinyl lined pool with a tear. I am looking for someting similar to a bicycle tire patch to seal the hole. does such thing exist? and does anyone know where to get one? I tried the glue and patch, but was really terrible and hard to use

answer:

Most liner manufacturers offer repair kits that include patches and glue. But if you prefer, you can use extra strips of vinyl and your own jar of glue.

It will be difficult to locate an exact liner pattern match for a damaged pool, especially if it's several years old. Bob Barci recommends finding a patch that's as close to the pattern as possible, or use a clear piece of material. Check with your local warehouse or distributor to make sure you're using the proper glue. Only use products that are deemed safe in vinyl applications.

Before beginning the repair, there is one vital factor to consider: the site of the rip. Is it reachable from the deck, such as in the shallow end of a pool or hot tub? If it is, then making the repair by hand will be easy.

If it's in the deep end, you may need to get into the pool or use a telescoping pole to set it in place. Another option is to subcontract an underwater repair specialist, though this can be expensive.

1 Use a sharp knife or razor to remove a patch big enough to completely cover the tear.

2 Take some glue that is approved for vinyl-liner repairs and spread it thoroughly on the underside of the patch.

3a If the tear is reachable from the deck, you can place the patch over the damaged area by hand. Do it quickly because the glue doesn't take long to dry--even under water. Note: Smooth over the edges around the tear with fine sandpaper.

3b If the rip is in the deep end and you can't get into the water, Bob and James Barci have developed a clever method to finish the job. After gluing the patch, they drop it into the water and let it settle by the tear, guiding it with a pool brush.

4 Once the patch is where it's needed, pressure is put on it by pushing down on the brush. This holds it in place until it's dry, and it also helps smooth out any wrinkles.

5 The patch is now in place and the leak has been repaired.

question:

What amount in USD should I charge for labor on adding on to an existing deck?
This deck is 24' x 30' It was built around a "top of ground pool". So really I am squaring it off where the pool was and completeing the railing. I am charing her labor and cost of building materials. But I am stumped on labor cost, I want to give her a good deal but not screw myself over too.

answer:

It depends - are you in an area which used primarily union carpenters or not? Are you paying for materials on a cost plus basis? Keep in mind that you need to pick up materials and may have to return bad boards or make extra parts runs. Who's paying for the permit and inspections (or will a permit be pulled)?
Bottom line is that you have to scope out your competition for the work to be done, and see if you can make money at it. Some contractors are willing to work at par (no profit) just to keep their employees paid. There is no concrete answer for all regions and all economic conditions. Bummer, eh?

question:

What are some options when decorating around an above ground pool.?
We are getting our home ready to sale and want to put something around the border of our above ground pool. We are leaning towards rocks and brick rather than a deck. Just want some creative ideas.

answer:

It is understandable that you want to add pool appeal. I am assuming that there is either a ladder or entry to the pool that does not include a sizable deck.

You are probably spending a lot of money on getting the house ready, so I would go with the least expensive, yet effective material for your pool boarder. Rocks come in so many colors and shapes and are relatively inexpensive, easy to install and they look good, too. A bricked area would be more expensive and a heck of a lot more time consuming to lay.

I recently surrounded a house foundation with 3/4" rocks that are gray with a pink tinge. I bought bags of shells at the dollar store and randomly and very sparingly spread the shells here and there over the rocks. We live on the water, so it blends in with the shoreline. I used the plastic edging to keep the rocks in place and so the lawn mower has an edge to run the wheel against without going over the rocks. Oh, I sprayed the area to be covered first with 50% vinegar and 50% water to disturb the ph balance in the soil so nothing will grow there and, it is all natural and will not harm anyone or anything, except the grass and weeds, of course.

Another idea is using sand or bark mulch in much the same way, but I don't think sand will stand up to the test of time. Mulch is inexpensive and if you use the darker brown color, it could also look good.

I would also get some Shepard's hooks and hang potted plants in pleasing locations around the pool. Show the house with a small float in the pool or a beach ball floating around. Drape some colorful towels over a chair, too. It sure would make me want to jump right in.

question:

What longboard is good for getting around a campus?
I am headed to college this fall and I love to snowboard (pretty good at it) and i kinda like to skateboard but i liked longboarding the best. Id like to get a longboard for this summer and for college and i was look at sector 9 and liked them a lot but i was wondering what kind of sector 9 board i should get, probably one thats easiest to get around people.

answer:

If you are worried about getting around people, I would stay on the smaller side of longboards. Probably between36" and 42". There are a few Sector 9 longboards in that size range. There is the Sector 9 Shipsterns Bamboo Swallow Tail that is 39.5" long. http://www.apertureboardshop.com/SPD/sector-9-shipsterns-bamboo-swallow-tail-complete-longboard-skateboard-38--bbf094-c--8796681871061582081.jsp The Sector 9 Shipstern takes the place of the Waimea. Sector 9's surfing influence shines through in the Shipsterns swallow tail shape as much as in the graphics. This longboard skateboard is a fast and smooth riding board. The deck features a "W" concave and mild camber to add to its strength while still allowing a nice amount of flex. Sector 9 is banging the drum for the environment with these boards made from Bamboo. Since Bamboo grows so fast and is durable and allows for nice flex makes it a perfect raw material for longboard skateboards. Don't forget Save a Tree Ride a Weed. Then is the Sector 9 Drainer Swallow Tail OG Series which is 37.5" long. http://www.apertureboardshop.com/SPD/sector-9-drainer-swallow-tail-og-series-complete-longboard-skateboard-ogf091-c--8878958155065622785.jsp Pool, park, cruising or campus, surfing concrete has never been more fun. The Sector 9 Drainer is great for all around surf style street carving or ditch slashing with a stylish swallow tail. Gullwing Mission 1 trucks that ride loose and have a great surfing feel, 61mm/78A wheels grip the road well without too much slide, easy to turn with a small turning radius, works great around campus if you are looking for a medium sized board, deck has a medium concave at the edges with a flat center locks foot in (even if you are wearing sandals). Retro shape that will let you race down the line and bash the lip with style. For the person who is looking for some extra wheel base but still feels the need to try and break a Sector nine beautiful handmade skateboard. Slight kick in the tail for tight maneuvering with a mellow concave. You can definitely pump this board to maintain speed. And then is the Sector 9 Seedling OG Series longboard that is 40" long. http://www.apertureboardshop.com/SPD/sector-9-seedling-og-series-longboard-skateboard-9-2--x-40-0--ogf092-c--8875413229233144065.jsp All of these boards would work great for what you are looking for.

question:

If I build a deck from composite lumber around an above ground pool , is it safe to attach a waterslide to it?
The manual for the zoomerang slide gives directions for attaching to wood or concrete. I would rather not use pressure treated wood.

answer:

COMPOSITE BUILDING MATERIALS ARE ENGINEERED TO BE BETTER, STRONGER AND LONGER LASTING THAN WOOD WHILE STILL MAINTAINING THE SAME CHARACTERISTICS AS NATURAL WOOD; THUS YOU CAN INSTALL ANYTHING TO COMPOSITES IN VERY MUCH THE SAME MANNER AS YOU WOULD WITH WOOD. THE ONLY DIFFERENCE IS THAT THEY WILL LAST LONGER AND YOU WONT GET SPLINTERS ON YOUR LITTLE FEET.

question:

where can i find a swimming pool that is both above ground and in-ground (combination i think)?
i seen it once on a site but now i can't seem to locate it.
one end is in the ground and the other end is out. it is classified as an above ground pool which helps tremendously with house taxes. it does have a gradual depth. goes from 3' to 9'.

answer:

Kayak's aren't the best answer . They'll do, but I'm not impressed with their track record over the long term, being sunk. They can be dished out (any above ground can) and a hopper made, but their limited deck space, is a real constraining factor. Don't try to pass someone going the other way, someone's going to get wet.
I think, however, you may be referring to what is called an On Ground pool. It's similar in material as an inground (walls are galvanized steel), but instead of being totally sunk, they usually are out of the ground about a foot or more, allowing for a wood deck all around. They're usually used in areas that have a high bedrock, making excavation for installing a traditional inground difficult or in a yard that has a heck of a slope. This lessens the cost of the pool overall as there may be no retaining wall needed or much dirt to move.
Check with your local inground vinyl builder, he'll be able to do one. There's not much difference in construction between it and a vinyl inground, other than deck type, the butressing for them and amount of excavation required. The kits for these type of pools can be found wherever there's an inground distributer.
Here's a few links
http://www.propools.com/cgi-local/SoftCart.exe/products/on_ground/ongroundswimmingpools.htm?E+scstore
and bottom of page here: http://www.doneensales.com/pools.htm

question:

how do I resurface the concrete around my pool?
I would like to resurface the concrete with more concrete or a newer material

answer:

Quikrete makes Concrete Resurfacer that can be squeegied on after the original surface is pressure washed and existing cracks repaired with Concrete Resurfacer. The thickness of the Concrete Resurfacer can be under 1/8th inch. It can be colored or left gray like normal concrete. It can be left smooth or broomed to give extra traction. It is tough enough to be used for refnishing driveways! I will be using it to resurface my porch and sidewalk (30 years old and extremely weaterhed with parts broken out for deck posts that lasted 20 years). I also will be using it to refinish a sidewalk and porch where a house builder's subcontractor walked on the concrete before it was fully set and left shallow boot prints. It's easy to mix in a 5-gallon bucket, color if desired, pour on, squeegee, and enjoy. Visit http://www.quikrete.com/ProductLines/ConcreteResurfacer.asp and click on Resurfacing Concrete at the bottom of the page to read and print an illustrated five-page .pdf file on how to do your project. Best wishes. Happy swimming!

question:

Does anyone know if it is possible to BUILD your own above ground swimming pool?
What kind of material would you have to use to build a pool?
to dmja45: So do you mean all I would need for the actual pool is a pool liner? (Besides, of course, the construction to hold it up)?

answer:

I suggest buying the least expensive pool liner you can find and a pool filter.A lot of 2x8x8 boards(any good hardwood,a couple cans of tar to coat the boards)for the sides,some will be place in an angle to support the sides.Some to top it off.Measure out a perimeter,dig a 2' deep by 4" wide trench for the foundation.Before putting up the sides,clean up what will be the floor of the pool(remove the grass and some dirt,then spread sand and smooth it out).Open the liner inside the pool,keep flat as possible,tuck in around against sides,drape over the top edge(to be held by top cap).Rip some firring strips in half,to keep liner supported,cap with boards.You can build a deck on the out around the perimeter for getting in/out of pool.

question:

What is a good millimeter thickness to get for a pool cover? What's the difference?
Also is it better for the cover to fit perfectly in the pool or to have some cover spill over around the edge of the deck?

answer:

What kind of cover are you looking for? Winter pool covers are usually measured by "scrim" or thread count. Usually when you refer to "mil" when measuring you are talking about a solar cover. If that's the case, you will want to look for at least 12 mil, but probably 14 mil. If you want a winter cover, yes, the cover needs to come over the sides of your pool. If you are referring to a solar cover, you will want it to fit the pool exactly and the bubble material can be trimmed with scissors so that it fits.

question:

How much does it cost to build an inground pool?
please provide sites that provide different designs for building, directions for building, and most important how much it costs.

answer:

The answer to your question will largely depend on where you live and your particular site conditions. Although there are "national" and "regional" pool companies, when it comes right down to it, each pool builder is an independent builder, because they all rely on local building codes and a local pool of labor and materials. For example, Blue Haven pools is a "national" pool builder. Premier Pools is a "regional" pool builder with offices in about 5 cities. This means nothing in a city like Phoenix, where the top three builders (BY FAR) are Shasta Pools, Paddock and Presidential pools.

Although you can, from a design stantpoint, go to the various web sites of these companies and get ideas on what you like and don't like in a pool, what matters is what you local builders can/will build - so focus on them.

A reputable pool builder will have a designer on staff to help you with a design. They should listen to what you want and suggest things that help you achieve what you want.

Execution of the construction of the pool will varry greatly between companies. A majority of companies will design a pool, then sub-contract out most, if not all of the work to smaller businesses (plumbers, electricians, concrete finishers, plasterers, etc.). Some pool companies build their own pools in- house (but this is very rare). The bottom line is, you get what you pay for. Chances are, a low bidder will use cheaper equipment and cheaper labor on their pool. A builder who builds their own pool will usually have a better final product, but cost a little bit more than other guys will.

Pools are priced based on a combination of the perimeter of the shape, surface area of the shape and average depth of the pool. In the Arizona market, a cheap pool can be built for around ,000. It is very basic, and roughly 26'x13' in dimension (70' perimeter, 250 sq ft surface area and 3' to 5' depth) or smaller. You can upgrade features in the same pool and get it up and over ,000 by adding things like upgraded cleaning systems, waterfalls, Pebble Tec, lights and extra decking. If your building site is on the side of a hill, that same pool could extend up and over ,000 if retaining walls and fill need to be brought in.

If your state licenses builders, check with that entity to research that company to see if they are reputable or not. Also, ask for references, and ACTUALLY call them.

question:

Does anyone have a copy of the National Electrical Code on bonding grids for Pools?

I am trying to see the actual code to determine what exactly needs to be grounded and how many locations. the pool is 18' circle steel all overed in resin.

answer:

Here is some of it but oyu are crazy to think you can learn to wire a pool by reading the code

680.26 Equipotential Bonding.
(A) Performance. The equipotential bonding required by
this section shall be installed to reduce voltage gradients in
the pool area.
(B) Bonded Parts. The parts specified in 680.26(B)(1)
through (B)(7) shall be bonded together using solid copper
conductors, insulated covered, or bare, not smaller than
8 AWG or with rigid metal conduit of brass or other identified
corrosion-resistant metal. Connections to bonded
parts shall be made in accordance with 250.8. An 8 AWG or
larger solid copper bonding conductor provided to reduce
voltage gradients in the pool area shall not be required to be
extended or attached to remote panelboards, service equipment,
or electrodes.
(1) Conductive Pool Shells. Bonding to conductive pool
shells shall be provided as specified in 680.26(B)(1)(a) or
(B)(1)(b). Poured concrete, pneumatically applied or
sprayed concrete, and concrete block with painted or plastered
coatings shall all be considered conductive materials
due to water permeability and porosity. Vinyl liners and
fiberglass composite shells shall be considered to be nonconductive
materials.
(a) Structural Reinforcing Steel. Unencapsulated structural
reinforcing steel shall be bonded together by steel tie
wires or the equivalent. Where structural reinforcing steel is
encapsulated in a nonconductive compound, a copper conductor
grid shall be installed in accordance with
680.26(B)(1)(b).
(b) Copper Conductor Grid. A copper conductor grid
shall be provided and shall comply with (b)(1) through
(b)(4).
(1) Be constructed of minimum 8 AWG bare solid copper
conductors bonded to each other at all points of crossing
(2) Conform to the contour of the pool and the pool deck
(3) Be arranged in a 300-mm (12-in.) by 300-mm (12-in.)
network of conductors in a uniformly spaced perpendicular
grid pattern with a tolerance of 100 mm (4 in.)
(4) Be secured within or under the pool no more than
150 mm (6 in.) from the outer contour of the pool shell
(2) Perimeter Surfaces. The perimeter surface shall extend
for 1 m (3 ft) horizontally beyond the inside walls of
the pool and shall include unpaved surfaces as well as
poured concrete and other types of paving. Bonding to perimeter
surfaces shall be provided as specified in
680.26(B)(2)(a) or (2)(b) and shall be attached to the pool
reinforcing steel or copper conductor grid at a minimum of
four (4) points uniformly spaced around the perimeter of
the pool. For nonconductive pool shells, bonding at four
points shall not be required.
(a) Structural Reinforcing Steel. Structural reinforcing
steel shall be bonded in accordance with 680.26(B)(1)(a).
(b) Alternate Means. Where structural reinforcing steel
is not available or is encapsulated in a nonconductive compound,
a copper conductor(s) shall be utilized where the
following requirements are met:
(1) At least one minimum 8 AWG bare solid copper conductor
shall be provided.
(2) The conductors shall follow the contour of the perimeter
surface.
(3) Only listed splices shall be permitted.
(4) The required conductor shall be 450 to 600 mm (18 to
24 in.) from the inside walls of the pool.
(5) The required conductor shall be secured within or under
the perimeter surface 100 mm to 150 mm (4 in. to

********I am a master electrician with 15 years in the trade. For the guy that said something about 680.6 that is grounding the question was about bonding.

If you don't know the difference between bonding and grounding you should not be wiring a pool.

*****if you ground the things near a pool you increase the chance of a shock.

You also said "grounded" in your question
the grounded wire is your "nuetral"
You ground things with a grounding conductor

question:

is there a technology now that can be built in the swimming pool that is constructed to change temperature?
i'm just curious. i mean would it be nice to feel a cold pool water on a scorching hot summer's day or warm and cozy during winter time conveniently located just at home?

answer:

Although the first answer is not incorrect; just leave it as it is and accept the prevailing temperature, and it's correct about heating in cooler weather.

On the other hand, here in Texas our pools get very warm [often uncomfortably warm] during the summer. Although I'm not aware of a specific source, I'm sure that an air conditioning company could install a liquid to liquid refrigerated cooling system, BUT... it would be VERY EXPENSIVE, both in the original capital outlay as well as electricity for operation..

Many years ago we made our own pool cooling system by tying into the discharge line of the pool pump and piped the filtered water to several spray heads around the pool edge. The water sprayed upward, partially evaporated, cooled, and then fell into the pool. We also installed valves at each spray head so we could turn them off in high wind, or when we used the pool.

The fine water spray enhanced EVAPORATION of some of the water, and thus removed heat from it. Because of water loss due to the evaporation, we had to add makeup water more often, BUT... this did cool the pool water somewhat, and we were well satisfied with our inexpensive homemade cooling system.

We also created a heating system for the fall weather [it wouldn't "keep up" when the weather actually got cold in the actual winter]. This system was simple, and very inexpensive because other than installing a valve in the pump discharge, the only other material was about two DOZEN old water hoses that people had discarded at their curbs for pickup by the trash and rubbish collectors.

Yes, many but not all of these hoses had leaks, but we patched them up by splicing, or often just a few turns of Electrician's tape, and later when the product "Leak Stop" became available, we tried that and it worked OK on most minor leaks.

At first, we coiled each of these hoses in a single layer coil [looks like the way sailors coil rope on a deck] and connected one hose coil to the next. This was done on the deck [flat]. As the deck being covered in hoses created difficulty in walking on them, we moved the whole collector assembly [one hose at a time] to the south facing slope of our roof. This oriented the plane of the hose heat collectors CLOSER TO PERPENDICULAR to he incoming sun rays, and thus more effecient at collecting the sun's heat.

We were well satisfied with the extended swimming season into the late Texas fall. However, BEFORE the first FREEZE, all the hose had to be fully drained of water to prevent freeze damage. The first year we took it all down off of the roof, drained it, and rolled it up and stored it in the garage.
Because that was so much work taking it down and putting it back up, the second year and afterword, we left the hose in place but disconnected it at both ends, and then used high pressure air from our garage air compressor to "blow" all the water out of the hoses.

Again, although not fancy, we were well satisfied with both our inexpensive and simple pool heater and cooler systems.

question:

Does a pool need the sun to keep the water from turning green?
We want to get a pool but we have a lot of trees..and I was thinking we'd cover it when we're not using it.

answer:

Some types of algae love the shaded sides of a pool. Mustard algae is this type. Keeping your pool well chlorinated and stabilized to protect the chlorine from the suns UV rays will allow your chlorine to hang around longer saving your money too.

Trees, leaves and pollen from trees and their bug population will all be in your pool. If using a cover please beware that out of sight is out of mind. The first indication you often get with a pool is color or appearance, cloudy. You cannot see this with a cover and many times people with covers neglect their pools and pull back the cover to find their pool is solid green. If you will not neglect your pool then it is OK to get a cover.

Covers will also kill pets, dogs, cats, raccoons, rats and the like step on the cover and are enveloped when the cover surrounds and downs them.

What I would do is get a good vacuum side cleaner like a Hayward Navigator, good on eating leaves then go with a "loop lock" cover that's fastened to the deck, it is a screen material that lets water vapor out and will keep pets and rodents out of your pool. It will keep the large leaves out and offer protection while allowing the cleaner to work underneath.

question:

I have an inground pool that's in bad shape and would like information or fixing it myself.?
The pool has fiberglass side walls which seem to be in good shape. below the walls looks to be the problem. The bottom needs to be redone and a new liner added. I'm not sure about the pump and filter system, I will have that tested. Just looking for some direction and wether it's worth fixing an an Idea of cost. I'm pretty handy and think I could do most of the work myself with some direction.

answer:

Actually, the bottom will be a minor worry. It's relatively easy and cheap to repair heaves. Even if you had to re do the entire bottom, 3 people can have it done in under a day, start to finnish and rubble removal. It's the walls I'm concerned about. Are these by any chance a yellowish, approximately 10 inch wide tongue and groove wall panels? If so, I've come across this manufaturer once before. It wasn't good news. The material they make it from, had deteriorated and the panels brittle to the point we couldn't garantee if the pool would still be there in 5 years. (it was a refurb job)
If, on the other hand, it's a whiteish 8 foot panel, no worries. I haven't seen many of them, but those I have seen have held up.
Steel panels are the material of choice for most manufaturers around where I live ( Toronto).
Costs: You don't give a pool size, so I'll go mid way and give you approximates for a 18 x36.
30 mil liner, basic pattern about 1200 canadian dollars
Bottom repairs: depends on how bad. You'll need portland,sand and vermiculite, at least. You may need concrete to patch a hole in any shell (if they made one for the pool) and possibly hydraulic cement if you have water comming in through the damaged areas. I've never seen a bottom that can't be fixed and never at great cost. Concrete pools (gunite) yes, vinyl ingrounds, no, it's easy and cheap.
Your pool equipment:: This all can depend on how old the equipment is. Even if the pump still spins, it will be worth the time and money to swap out an old brass one for a newer model pump. Same with the filter. Those old cast iron tanks all need replacement sooner or later as repairing the lateral assembly inside, gets to be impossible after the top bolts have rusted in place. If both filter and pump are made of plastics, that's a helpful sign that you'll at least be able to repair any issue with them and won't really need to go new. To give you an idea of cost, a 1.5 hp hayward super pump retails at around 550 dollars and a 24 inch sand filter (hayward) is about 500 dollars retail. #20 silica sand is 8 bucks per 50 lb bag, you'll need 300 lbs. If you know electrical and plumbing, they're easy to install. If you choose to stick to your original equipment and give them a try, you should at least change the sand in that filter and while you're at it, inspect the lateral assembly inside and replace as needed. There's really nothing else you can do, until you have water running through it. It'll work or it won't. If it doesn't, save that sand for the new filter you'll be installing.
Same with the pump. I'd be changing the shaft seal on it after ensuring the motor runs ok. That's it until water time. (shaft seal is about 15 dollars)
If this pool is heated, you'll want a furnace guy in. This isn't something that any home owner should tackle. Last one I saw that did, burnt his cabana, his bar and his pool equipment down.
One thing, that you haven't mentioned is pool plumbing. It can always be redone underground, but it's best to find any issues before you start on the actual pool reno. You may be slinging some dirt around your yard and you don't want to mess up a nice new bottom patch job you did with a bunch of debris getting knocked into the pool from that pile on the deck. Get your lines pressure tested. You can do this yourself, if you have the proper tools (air compressor to pressurize to 20 psi, assorted plugs and a pressure tester (rent one from a pool shop) If the lines are viable, great, if not your best bet is to get a pro in for this. We can locate leaks under 6 inches of concrete, 4 feet down within 6 inches. I doubt you will be able to. This part is all experience. A typical pressure test and locate leak if there is one (we do it all at once) is about 70 dollars, sometimes cheaper. The actual repair is usually easy and you could dig it out yourself saving 150 - 600 dollars, depending on the access.
I'm afraid that's all I can offer, given the information.
Good luck with it and if you know what end of a screw driver to use ( I've seen some classic cases, lol), you shouldn't have any issues you can't overcome.

question:

Whats the easiest way to build a deck around an above ground pool?

answer:

If you want easy, hire a contractor. You can go to www.lowes.com and design your own deck. It will ask you for several measurements, like how high off the ground, how long, how wide etc. IT will give you a complete materials list, and plans.

question:

What should I pack for my cruise to Alaska that is leaving from Seattle?
What should I pack? I'm going in the end of May. Please include toiletries. THANKS!!!
If you have a question i'll answer it! That's my gift!

answer:

I'd object to that link for a packing list in that you really don't need a foreign langauge phrase book in Alaska. Unless it is to talk to other passangers. But the people ashore will all speak English with only a few odd words thrown in (skookum = good, spendy = expensive, PFD = that free money we get from the state each year).

The end of May will have long daylight hours - even more than you would experience in Seattle. And if you continue north to Anchorage, you'll have 17 hour long days and 18-19 in Denali NP that time of year. So a facemask for blocking out light is helpful for some people.

Toiletries would be normal items plus mosquito repellent. Not for the ship, but for possibly use on shore. But the stuff is nasty if it leaks so double zip-lock bag it. Pack most of your toiletries in checked bags so you don't have as much hassle with TSA on carry-on luggage (if you're flying up or back). All carry-on items must be less than 100ml / 3 oz and all be in a one-quart zip-lock.

For clothing, you have to decide how much dancing and dining at the captain's table you plan to do and bring appropriate clothes. But for time on deck and shore trips plan on layers. A confortable shirt, a sweater (fleece is good) and a rain shell should be plenty in late May. Temps will be from mid 50s in the morning and below glaciers to as much as 70-75 on a sunny day. Throw in a pair of shorts, but you're not likely to use them.

Most people don't bring many options for thier legs. And it won't be terribly cold so unless you are always the coldest one around, that's probably fine. But if you run on the cold side, consider thermal underwear for under your pants for those coldest times or longest shore trip if the weather is cool. If you wouldn't let rain shop you from wandering around town, then maybe you'd want to bring a pair of light rain pants.

If you do any extreme shore trips - helicopter flight to a glacier or rafting down a river, the outfitter will provide the warm coat, life jacket, rain slicker, etc. If you do a fishing charter, they will provide the poles, bait, fillet the fish, etc. You just need clothes that can take a little halbiut/salmon blood on them.

Check what facilities the ship has. If you're going to use the pools and hut tub a lot, then bring a few bathing suits. If you're going to use the fitness center or do aerobics classes, etc, you'll want workout clothes. Etc.

There will be laundry service on board, but like a hotel, it is expensive, so you probably want to bring enough socks and UW to last the whole trip. And a few small accessories (scarf, etc) to add variety to your wardrobe without adding much weight and bulk.

As far as formality - it is a mix. Some passangers will really dress up on board. The ones that really want to stand out (i.e are clueless) will do so on shore. Not that it is hard to tell who the cruise chip passangers are - 2,000 of them arrive at the same time and then they get bussed around all together and the average age is about 65.

But in town, the locals will all be very CASUAL. Extremely so. I've been to a wedding in Alaska in which the groom wore his NEW Carharrts (work jeans). That constituted formal wear. I might wear a jacket and tie to talk to a state senator in the capital or testify in court or go to a wedding. But then again, it wouldn't be unusual to skip it in any of those situations. Jeans and t-shirt suffice for most everything. A clean shirt if you're trying to impress someone.

Note that the shops on board and on shore will stock all the usual stuff - clothes, toiletries, souveniers, camera memory, artwork, jewlery, food, snacks, etc. So focus on those things that would be a hassle to get - prescription medication, eyeglasses, your preferred reading material, etc.

I'm a big advocate of EXPERIENCING a trip, not DOCUMENTING it. So I'd say leave the camera at home. You can get postcards and picture books with much better photos than you can take. If you want a few shots of yourself, ask a fellow pasanger to email one to you. Or use your cellphone. In part because the camera dictates multiple batteries, memory card, charging dock, etc. It is like babysitting a kid while you could be looking around at spectacular scenery.

But bring a good pair of binoculars (buy or borrow from someone). There will eagles in the trees on shore, calving glaciers, whales and dolphins in the water, possibly mountain goats on the cliffs, and little towns and cabins that you sail past. Have a great trip!

question:

How mci will it cost to build a deck?
Around my 18x52 pool just a small deck it's an above ground pool

answer:

About 0 per square metre labour and materials.

question:

Can you paint a patio if its not a smooth surface?
My patio was poured back in the seventies and is rough, It has a million little rocks in it. I want to paint it but wasn't sure if I could. Can I paint a patio that's not smooth and if I can what kind of paint should I buy? Thanks!

answer:

Painting is a guarantee lifetime job since it will have to be redone every year or so.

Below is from www.masterhandyman.com:

You can patch small cracks less than a half inch in width, along with minor pitting, by using Quikrete Gray Concrete Crack Seal, (800) 282-5828, www.quikrete.com. This pre-mixed latex emulsion is available in both handy tube sizes and in bottles up to a gallon.

When surface problems are just too big to just patch, it's time to move into the land of concrete resurfacing. These products cover rough concrete like frosting on a cake. They can be applied with everything from a brush and roller to a squeegee and a trowel. Look for Concrete Resurfacer by Quikrete; or Flo-Coat Concrete Resurfacer by Sakrete, (866) 725-7383, www.sakrete.com. Sakrete's Flo-Coat is only available in the standard gray cement color, but you can use a concrete stain on it after it dries for at least 28 days.

Speaking of stain, you have many more choices today in the product lines of concrete stains and coatings. H&C Concrete Coatings, (800) 867-8246, www.hcconcrete.com, is available at your local Sherwin-Williams store. Also try Mason's Select Concrete Stain, (800) 825-5382, www.superdeck.com, from Duckback Products.

Restore by Synta Inc., (404) 508-9194, www.synta.com, is available at ACE Hardware and includes all the materials you need to revive unsightly concrete. It also will fill cracks up to 1/4 inch and features a slip-resistant formula, which makes it great around pools or patios. For bigger jobs, look at products like Liquid Granite from Ames Research Laboratories Inc., (888) 345-0809, www.amesresearch.com.

One product that has been especially popular for decks is also applicable for newer concrete. GacoDeck from Gaco Western, (866) 422-6489, www.gacoretail.com, is skid-resistant and has a 50-year limited warranty. It's available at ACO Hardware, Harrison Paints in Sterling Heights, (586) 268-0808, and the four locations of Teknicolor Paints, (248) 745-0003, www.teknicolors.com. Make sure that you follow the instructions to the letter on these, and all other concrete products, to guarantee your success.

question:

Any good books etc.on concrete slab work for a pool deck????
I'm putting in a concrete deck around my pool, about 1200 square feet (including the pool of 500 sq. feet), and I'm not finding many books on making forms, installing drains, spacers to be used between the slab and the house, expansion joints, etc. I'm not sure if Ortho or Sunset makes one that goes beyond the basics or not. Anybody know of any books or websites that cover this topic?? It seems that most cover small jobs like a pathway or small area. Contractors charge a lot of money, and although I know I will need help floating it out, I know enuf about carpentry and landscaping to do the forms and downspout drains as well as surface drains. Not sure if there are any books or info specifically on pool decks??? Any help is most-appreciated!!!! Thank you!!!! Am I underestimating the difficulty of this job, and should I be looking for a good concrete contractor??? Seems they all want like 12-18 bucks a square foot and I know that material costs are only about per foot.

answer:

Im going to give you a crash couse in laying concrete, what you are doing shouldnt be that bad, as long as you have to do it right. You may have to email me to get clarification on some things.

I have a couple questions for you before we get started.

What kind of soil do you have around the pool now? example sand, black soil, gravel?

How much higher is the pool than the surrounding grade?

Will the concrete extend from pool to home foundation?

Do you live in an area that has extended freezing weather?

send the answers back to jerry@jerrymleko.com

if possible draw, scan and send a sketch with measurement and surrounding areas out 10 ft on all sides.

question:

swimming pool reapirs to the return lines?
my pool is 30 years young and now some of the supply lines are corroded under the ground. My pool is an inground concrete pool. I need to run another line for the skimmer and the two returns

answer:

If you do it yourself the cost will be minimal. But it is a LOT of work. Drain the pool below the returns. Dig from the skimmer and returns all the way back to the pool equipment. You don't say what your current plumbing is made of, but being 30 years old it could still be PVC. Might also be copper (doubtful) or even galvanized (even more doubtful.) Whatever it is made of it should be replaced. Once the digging is done expose the bottom of the skimmer where the pipe comes out. If the pipe is PVC then cut and couple, running new PVC pipe all the way to the equipment slab. If the existing piping isn't PVC then try to unscrew the old pipe from the skimmer. If you can't get it loose, replace the skimmer. There should be a concrete "box" around the skimmer. This will have to be removed first, then the skimmer set and concreted back in. You might also have to remove part of the concrete box to get at the bottom of the skimmer to do the plumbing. Again, this is a lot of labor but materials cost is negligable. Do basically the same procedure for the return lines. They will Tee together at some point. Replace all of it from pool to equipment.
BEFORE you fill up the plumbing ditches fill the pool with water and turn it on. Look carefully for any leaks, then cover the pipes. It's maddening to do all this work and have a leak which would have to be dug back up!
If you do not have a lot of decking around the pool you can probably tunnel under to get at all the returns and skimmer. (Working upside down in a tunnel with PVC glue is a hoot!)
If you have a lot of deck, then there is no choice but to remove some of it before you start. Let's reserve repairing the deck for another question.

question:

Can Kool Decking around the pool be done via do-it-yourself project?
Is it difficult (scale 1 -10)?

We are not novices at DIY home repairs however our knowledge stops at the interior projects (painting, carpet, tile, light carpentry, etc).

Would it be worth trying ourselve or getting an expert to do it?

answer:

Home Depot has lots of books that are easy to follow. It's a lot of work, but it's not brain surgery. I build fences & decks for a living, and re-mod kitchens and bathrooms. If you are a do it yourself-er, then you can do it. Otherwise, most deck builders charge by the square foot, and where I live, the price ranges from - per s/f. Railings are per foot, and stairs are really expensive. Figure out your s/f that you want to build, and then do the math.
I built my deck. The materials cost 00 and it took me two weekends to build. Had I charged someone to build my deck, I would have charged over ,000

answer:

Yeah, you can do it yourself. I'm considering doing the job myself in the spring, although I've got two estimates from pros so far. You'll have to power wash the deck first, and make sure it's dry, then apply the surfacing material. Some of it sprays on, but you can get the stuff that rolls on. The hardest job is replacing the seal material between the deck and the pool coping on an inground pool. Basically, this is just another home improvement project. Research it first online. I'm considering a pro because I'm in my 60s and retired.

question:

What are the pros,cons of the super strength pourous and non-pourous pool covers?
The advertised covers that allegedly will support an elephant are the type covers I'm interested in buying. I want to know which one is the strongest and most maintenance free. I want to know if there are algae problems upon pool opening. What about rainwater on the solid cover? Just any information deemed useful in making a decision.

answer:

The in ground pool cover you describe is generically known as a "safety cover". All the manufacturers I've dealt with seem to be about equal in quality but the Cantar product seems to be universally available and their measurement sheet is the easiest to fill out for the manufacture of the cover to fit your particular pool if you plan on measuring and installing yourself. It takes about an hour and a half on average, for most pools for an experienced installer (crew of two).
Algae issues. There can be. As a rule of thumb, most owners of this type of winter cover will open their pools earlier in the season when algae has yet to form and close later in the season. Doing this can avoid a potential algae issue but it's not garanteed. It all depends on the weather.
You'll also see some dirt in the pool upon opening. Unavoidable as some will get in at the edges of the cover.
These covers are actually a breeze to open and close, usually taking, on an average pool, only 10 minutes to do either. One person and a cordless drill with the proper bit to raise or lower the deck anchors and lever on or off the straps.
As to a traditional cover.( non porous)
Generally they take much longer to open. The precipitation of the entire winter is on it as well as any debris that's blown in. That all has to be removed before the cover comes off. There are two types of this kind of cover. A water bag anchored one and a lock in one. A water bag cover can be used on either a concrete or vinyl pool. A lock in is generally only available on a vinyl pool with the proper coping track.They can be made of actual vinyl ( usually only in a lock in) or a poly tarp material which is more common and in my opinion better for longevity if taken care of. Lighter too.
Algae issues with a non porous cover usually only occur if your water chemistry was out of balance at closing or the cover hasn't been secured properly and debris has gone under the cover or the top cover water has managed to mix with the pool water because of a hole that has formed in the cover.
Price wise, the safety cover is MUCH more expensive, but properly looked after will outlive a poly tarp or vinyl non porous cover. They also do work as advertised. I used to take the short cut across a pool after closing it rather than walk around the deck and it always amazed the customer a bit.:)
That just goes to show that pets or kids will have no issue like they might with a normal cover which could entrap them.
When all is said and done, it's going to boil down to your budget and how safe you need to feel.

question:

Swimming pool decks ideas! any creative minds out there?
We're planning to have a swimming pool deck installed next week, but we can't settle for a specific design or layout first. Do you any site where they give you fantastic ideas on how to install a pool deck even with a limited space and budget? Thanks in advance!

answer:

It all depends on the shape of your pool, the landscaping around your pool and your preference for materials.

I'd highly suggest you talk to a landscape architect, a concrete contractor, or a pool construction company. All can be found by letting your fingers do the walking (the yellow pages).

question:

How spaced out should agapanthus be in 3x3 foot area its a square so how many should i get and how spaced out?

answer:

According to this website, it looks like they should be planted 4 - 6 inches apert. Assuming that none are planted along the edges, we have the following for a 3 ft x 3 ft area:

4 inches apart.....64 bulbs
6 inches apart.....25 bulbs

Here's an excerpt from the site:

Outdoor Beds

1. Find a location where the soil drains well. If there are still water puddles 5-6 hours after a hard rain, scout out another site. Or amend the soil with the addition of organic material to raise the level 2"-3" to improve the drainage. Peat moss, compost, ground bark or decomposed manure all work well and are widely available. Agapanthus will not survive in soils that are water logged.

2. Site your agapanthus where they will receive full sun to light shade.

3. Plant the bulbs 2" deep and 4-6" apart.

.................

Pots, Tubs & Urns

1. Fill your containers with good quality, well-drained soil. Almost any commercially available potting medium will work fine. Make sure there are adequate drainage holes; agapanthus bulbs must never sit in waterlogged soil or they will rot.

2. Site your agapanthus where they will receive full sun to light shade. These are great container plants for pool or patio edges and around deck perimeters.

3. Plant the bulbs 2" deep and 4-6" apart.

.................

http://www.easytogrowbulbs.com/index.asp?PageAction=Custom&ID=120

Good luck!

question:

How spaced out should agapanthus be in 3x3 foot area its a square so how many should i get and how spaced out?

question:

What is a good cleaning schedule? How often should which household chores should be done?

answer:

This is my personal schedule. I do all the inside stuff and my husband does all the outside/appliance maintenance stuff. I keep a calendar so that the 2x and 1x per year stuff does not slide and we don't end up doing it all on the same day.

DAILY:
- Make beds
- Pick up and put things away
- Vacuum (may only need to do 1-2x per week if you do not have childen or animals)
- Clean kitchen after dinner

WEEKEND:
- Laundry
- Dusting
- Clean Bathrooms
- Deep cleaning of one room every weekend (i.e. kitchen deep clean means I clean out refrigerator, cabinets, oven; a bedroom deep clean involves cleaning out drawers and closets and getting rid of stuff we don't use, etc.)
- Polish/clean wood and tile floors and tile floors
- Grocery shopping
- Clean/upkeep of swimming pool if you have one and it's in season
- Mow lawn
- Landscaping upkeep (trim bushes, pull weeds)

2x PER YER:
- Do a thorough spring-cleaning. Wash walls and windows, shampoo and vacuum carpeting, polish floors, etc.
- Paint/repaint any rooms that need touch-ups.
- Clean or replace the filter in your air conditioning system
- Deep clean swimming pools, ponds and/or fountains. Do repairs as needed.
- Repair or replace damaged window screens and weather-stripping.
- Caulk open joints around windows and doors.
- Inspect rain gutters for rusted and damaged areas.
- Repair or replace faulty gates, fence posts, landscape borders, etc.
- Clean decks, gazebos, fences and patio furniture. If your furniture or deck is made of wood, pour water on the surface; if it doesn't bead up, it needs to be refinished.
- Replace batteries in safety appliances, such as smoke and carbon monoxide detectors.
- Lanscaping (plant flowers, etc.)

1x PER YEAR:
- Check the exterior walls of your home for cracks, peeling paint or other damage.
- Cut and remove branches around the roofline to keep squirrels and other pests away.
- Check outdoor faucets.
- Clean the water heater and check that it is functioning correctly.
- Inspect and clean the fireplace before lighting your first fire in the winter.
- Check the furnace filter and replace if necessary.
- Rid rain gutters of leaves and other debris that may get in the way of drainage and promote rusting.
- Inspect crawl space beneath the house
- Inspect grout and caulking around sinks, tubs and showers.
- Remove and clean the drain plugs from sinks and tubs.
- Remove accumulated mineral deposits from showerheads by soaking or scrubbing them with white vinegar.
- Inspect your roof from the ground with binoculars. Look for loose, missing or damaged roofing materials.
- Clean the underside of range hood and clean or replace the filter.
- Inspect your washing machine and dryer. Remove lint that's accumulated from the dryer drum to where the air is vented outside.
- Inspect and clean kitchen appliances, including the stove, dishwasher, garbage disposal, exhaust fans, etc.

question:

What's an aesthetic design for the exterior of a swimming pool?
recently, I had installed an above ground 12 foot diameter pool. the grass has been killed off around the surrounding area, and I have only had time to put a few potted tropical plants in places.
I wont be doing any major work now with summer almost over, but I want to design over the winter something nice to do for next year. A running deck even to the top of the pool isnt an option. but what about one that is 1 foot off the ground? so that it could be walked on, have pool toys sit there and that way my kids and i dont have to walk in the mud around it?
should it be wood or some other material? wood seems like high maintenance. I guess I could just build a landscaping bed but it might get ruined with too muich water when it splashes out and it drains when i clean it once a month.

thank you for any suggestions.:)

answer:

one thing you might consider is a cool deck this is a deck that no matter how hot it gets this deck will not burn your feet.they do work i have been on them bare footed. and you can have any color you want owner of pool company for eleven years.

question:

what is this timber tek decking made out of?

Thanks for the comment...I really need to know what it's made out of...my husband said it look like it was made of....recycled plastic,saw dust,and paper...but we were just wondering...

answer:

timbertech is a brand of composit decking material. although i do not remember using this particular brand, typically they are an epoxy and sawdust blend that is heated to form a durable board. there are many brands, timbertech is just one of them. they say they are maintenance free and don't require painting or staining. i have used them in the past, and some are pretty good. like anything that is in the sun, they do fade over time. the only difference is that most can't be re-stained. the best thing about them is they don't splinter. it makes them good for around pools or piers or where people go barefoot. some have a tendency to get "very" slippery when wet and they can get very hot. the cost is significantly more than standard wood decking, but you won't have to do the maintenance and they claim they won't rot.

the sub structure of the deck is the same, the composit decking is just for the areas that will be seen or walked on. deck boards, railings etc...

question:

What kind of wood stain should I use for my pool deck?
We built a large deck around our swimming pool from pressure treated wood. I'm ready to apply a stain and I'm not sure what kind to use.
When I looked at the many different brands, I noticed that most of them are oil based. Is it okay to use an oil based product around the pool? Will it be completely absorbed into the wood so the surface is dry? Is there a possibility of the oil being tracked into my pool off people's feet?

Thanks for your help here.

Oh, by the way, the deck has been built a few months so it is dried out now.

answer:

Petroleum/oil based stains will penetrate and provide you with the best finish and durability with this. I personally and professionally prefer Cabot's Brand stains and they have both a water and oil based decking stains for you to consider. . . both are excellent, but again, I suggest you go with the oil base on this being around the pool and it's being subjected to alot of chemically enhanced water and the elements. Cabots website is http://www.cabotstain.com and the site offers alot of reference materials for the do-it-yourselfer.

Also, Lowe's features Cabots.

Mike Lonergan
TradesProfessional, Inc.
http://www.tradesprofessional.com

question:

What is the best material to refinish gunite pools with?

answer:

"There are three styles of gunite finishing... Paint, Diamond Brite Plaster, Plaster

Paint is the most durable with the lowest cost. I reccomend Ramuc s HIBuild Epoxy paint.... not all paints are created equally. Two coats are required for an awesome finish. This paint comes in 2 gallon kits ( 1gallon paint, 1 gallon catalyst) a 50/50 ratio. Kelly Tech (goes under Olympic amongst many other names) makes an epoxy paint that is 75/25 ratio paint/ catalyst (not nearly as durable). If you are painting with this... Make sure you follow the coverage chart on the back... it is very easy to apply this paint too thin; the only thing that is going to occur is 3 coats that only last 5 years rather than the average ten. Also, a great way to tell if this is going on at the right thickness is to listen... when the roller is loaded with paint and you are moving it up and down nothing should be heard. The roller shouldnot make a sound, if you here it pulling the paint (like painting a wall indoors) the paint is not thick enough. [When we paint pools, the only thing I do is walk around the pool from the deck and listen to my guys paint... make sure i can't here the rollers]. These fumes are heavier than air SAFETY FIRST. The first time I painted one of my guys made me leave the pool because I was talking jiberish after not taking breaks to breathe fresh air.

Paint and all material costs- 00- 00 (depending on the size of the pool)

Labor- 00- 00

Diamond Brite Plaster is the "new" thing. Very expensive however looks a bit nicer. This is what you see at many commercial pools in the south and west. Feels like very smooth concrete. Diamond brite can be tinted with nearly every color. This process requires you to strip all plaster from the pool down to the structure concrete or gunite. (a very tedious procedure) The new finish gets sprayed then troweled on. In order to make this look sharp you need experience. Expected life 15 years

Materials- 00- 00

Labor- 00- 000

Plaster is very similar to diamond brite. not much cheaper (all labor driven) the plaster when touched slowly comes off in the pool, and has an expected life of 10 years. The old plaster actually comes off easier than the diamond brite so the destruction is a little less time consuming.

Materials- 0- 0

Labor- 00- 000

Liner is out of the question... here are the costs

liner track- 0 skimmer and jet conversions- 0 main drain conversion- 0 Liner Padding- 0 Liner 30mil 00- 00. Labor to alter this pool is ridicuolus- 00. Liner life 6-10 years. I have performed two of these and both times I was laughing at the customer becasue they were so dead ste on this and it is the worst option... they just liked the way a liner felt... Such a silly job when painting should have been done

materials-00- 00

labor- 00- 00

With all of these procedures.... If the pool is not prepped properly the finish will come off very quickly. Proper surface cleaning and etching is a must."

question:

Has anyone painted or put fencing around their above ground pool?
I want to buy a sand dollar 2 by doughboy. I hate the outside of all above ground pools. I want it to look more natural. Has anyone tried to put bamboo type fencing around it or painted the pool? I would like a neutral color instead of the modern 80's designs these pools have. thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

answer:

I built a deck and fence around my uncle's above ground pool. Painting the pool itself is a bit more problematic, however. In-ground pools need epoxy paint to seal the concrete, but you cannot use epoxy paint on an above-ground pool. It would melt the material or eat right through it. Use an acrylic paint, but remember that you will probably have to repaint every other year. Here's a guide:

http://www.poolcenter.com/painted_pools.htm

question:

Does dew fall in the middle of the ocean?
I was on a cruise on Oasis of the Seas recently, andi remember at night the chairs on our balcony and the public areas were damp. They wernt near the pools and it didnt rain and it wasnt sea spray because the chairs were way up on deck 18. Why were they damp?

answer:

So the previous answer has it pretty good.
Dew is formed when the temperature of the air is cooled to the "dew point" - a relative term that describes the temperature of a parcel of air that allows it to lose the water vapor that it was carrying (supersaturation). Dew (and other precipitation) forms around condensation nuclei which are tiny imperfections in the atmosphere that can attract water to it and allow drops to form. Now, the thing with being on the ocean is that you are in the middle of the largest site of water evaporation in the world. That means that the air is already exceptionally moist and even though the water retains heat pretty well the materials on the ship (like metals and plastics) will not and will become cool. That will cool the air in the area to the "dew point" and allow water to form on the surfaces (as long as there is not a lot of wind). This would work just fine but if there is some wind, why does it still happen? The sea, with its churning and movement can release microscopic salt particles which just so happen to form extremely efficient condensation nuclei (the relative humidity only needs to be about 70% (way way less than what tends to be above a huge body of water) for drops to form).
Hope this makes sense.

question:

What to do for my sweet 16th party?
My sweet 16th isn't for a few months...
But I want to start planning my party already! ;)
I need a really cool theme or idea for it...
There'll be girls and guys there (around 30), I'm not allowed any alcohol and it can either be at my place or we can rent out somewhere (a hall, swimming pool or whatever)
I need some ideas, like themes and stuff!
Oh, and after the party I'll have about 5 girls sleep over for the night. :)

answer:

Diamond's Are a Girl's Best Friend. The theme is black and white with pink accents, and of course diamonds. Everyone is going to be wearing black and white, and you can wear pink. Of course if you don't like pink you can also do red. Make it a party where you have to dress up nice.

You should check out Marilyn Monroe's movie "Diamonds Are a Girl's Best Friend" if you haven't already. Here's a link for a scene from that movie:

http://www.dennissylvesterhurd.com/blog/121505.jpg

Madonna even did a music video "Material Girl" based on a scene from that movie.

http://www.multinet.no/~jonarne/Hjemmesia/Favorittartister/madonna/madonna_material_girl.jpg

If you're going to have your party at home or a hall so you can deck the place out in your color theme. Have everyone dress in that color scheme, and maybe for the girl's you can suggest that they were some sort of diamond bling. The guys can wear a top hat.

Centerpieces for the tables:

http://www.mydreamwedding.ca/wp-content/uploads/image/Joseph/reception_table6.jpg

Clear vases with clear rocks/marbles/crystals (to symbolize diamonds) and a pink flower (roses, hydrangeas, pink stargazer lillies). Maybe around the vase you can put a black and white ribbon with a diamond hanging from it? If you can get a light to put in the vase to make your diamonds sparkle. Otherwise it's fine as it is.

Maybe you can serve red velvet cupcakes with chocolate frosting and have a fake diamond on top of it. You can also do white frosting with a chocolate cupcake. I don't know if you're going to do a birthday cake, but here's pictures of ideas that I found for you:

http://www.herecomestheblog.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2010/01/black-white-pink-wedding-cake-ideas.jpg

I hope this helps. I can think of more stuff if you like my ideas.

question:

I have a poured concrete foundation, and I want to finish my basement. Should I use studs or 1x3 strapping?
I would put up foam insulation first if I was going to use the strapping, or with the studs I would insulate between them.

answer:

A lot of remodeling contractors are now using a 2" x 4" (handrail section) of composite decking materials for the bottom plate. Then using 20 gauge metal studs for the framing. Why? The bottom plate is the most susceptable part of the framing in a basement. Any condensation or small water leaks in the foundation will over time destroy the bottom plate. Using this composite material eliminates any worry over decaying or rotting plates on the bottom.
Snap a chalkline 4+1/2" out from the poured wall, make sure the floor is very clean and then glue down the composite bottom plate with heavy duty liquid nail. I absolutely would not put any nails,tapcons through the concrete floor or the poured concrete wall. This just invites any water that could pool up under the slab or around the wall perimeter to find its way through the concrete via the holes from the nails or tapcons.
Fasten a 20 gauge pc. of track for the top plate of your wall into the floor joists above, on the end joists you will need to install blocking between the floor joist to provide a nailer.
I believe in having air circulation behind these framed walls. Basements are always cooler than the upstairs because cooler air seeks lowest levels. Packing a bunch of insulation in these walls is excessive, just install r-11 or r=13 using the fiberglass insulation that is encapsulated in plastic sheeting. This is why I suggested snaping your chalkline out 4-5" away from the wall.
We call the strapping (fur strips) which I would not do.
Use mold resistant gypsum board (drywall/sheetrock/all the same). Test your wall for moisture content by taping several pcs. of aluminum foil up against the wall. Seal all the edges with duct tape tight. Leave on for 24 hrs. then pull off and look for any moisture on wall or on back side of aluminum foil - moisture indicates there may be a problem. Do this especially at the bottom 24" of your wall in several places.
If moisture is present - set your chalkine out 6" so you can get air flow behind it. Also install several grilles 8" x16" in bottom part of wall to permit air to flow behind wall.
If no moisture then proceed.
Wood studs will soak up moisture and are not the straightest to begin with. 20 gauge metal studs can be cut to length with a chop saw, they are easy to work with and have slots/holes in them for pipes, electrical conduit or metal cased flexible wiring. They are nice and straight too - all of them. You will need *tek screws to screw metal studs to the top/bottom track. Put bottom track right on top of the composite 2" plate at the bottom. Track comes in 10' lengths, studs come in 8' 10' + up. Electrical boxes screw right to the metal studs with the same tek screws you use to fasten studs to the track. * Metal studs use what we call track at the top/bottom which is called plates when using wood studs. Any place you want to hang cabinets/tv's or other fairly heavy objects just screw wood blocking into sides of the metal studs at these locations.

question:

Are in-ground pools with vinyl liners any good opposed to concrete pools.?
I know that vinyl is cheaper than concrete, but I am wondering if I should just spend the extra and get concrete.

answer:

We had a gunite in-ground pool installed and despite the cost, it was worth it. You have many more custom options with gunite than with vinyl liners. The high price of gunite is mostly in the installation but it holds up better and it's easier to replaster than it is to replace a vinyl liner. If you take good care of the plaster, it can last 15 years or more before needing to be replastered. I found some articles you might want to check out.

"Unlike Gunite Swimming Pools Vinyl lined pools are not well suited for northern climates as they do not stand up well to the ground movement and expansion that occurs in the winter. Therefore, if you live in an area where the winters are cold, you need to pay particular attention when picking the shell for your vinyl pool. It should be strong enough to withstand the pressure that will be exerted on it when the soil surrounding the pool freezes and expands. Winter soil expansion and shifting can create air pockets around or under the floor of the pool which may cause your vinyl pool to collapse, particularly if a large amount of rainwater has accumulated. This shifting of soil will also affect your pool's surroundings, so be sure to wait for a full year before installing a deck or patio to give the soil time to settle." http://www.skilledcontractors.com/resources/articles/Disadvantages-of-Vinyl-Swimming-Pools.htm

"Installing a vinyl-lined in-ground swimming pool is a cost-efficient alternative to more expensive in-ground pool options such as fiberglass and concrete. The cost for excavation of the pool site will be equivalent to the excavation costs for concrete and fiberglass in-ground pools, but once that is done, vinyl is a significantly cheaper material.

However, vinyl is a less durable material than fiberglass and concrete, and therefore is less durable and requires more maintenance work: As the vinyl wears out over time, you will need to replace the vinyl liner. This will need to be done every 10 years or so, and will require a commitment of both time and money." http://www.skilledcontractors.com/resources/articles/A-Vinyl-Pool-Might-be-the-Best-Option-for-Your-Back-Yard.htm#VinylPoolconstruction

"The primary negative of gunite pools is the cost. Their high quality usually makes them more expensive than other types of pools. On average installing a gunite pool will cost at least ,000 more than installing a vinyl or fiberglass pool. Colder climates, where the ground freezes and thaws in the winter, add stress to the structure of gunite pools, and therefore require additional steel and concrete, which can boost the cost of installation. Further money is required every 5-10 years or so to resurface the pool and correct staining, chipping and other wear and tear. However, these costs are balanced by the fact that gunite is more durable than vinyl pools or fiberglass pools. Therefore, the long term cost is about equal." http://www.skilledcontractors.com/resources/articles/Gunite-Pools.htm

question:

Any suggestion on how to replace an above-ground liner for an oval pool with a deck around it?
I have a 12 x 24 x 48 oval above ground pool. I have a deck built around it, but with little room between the underside of the deck and the top rail of my pool. I believe my first liner......which is in desperate need of being replaced....was an overlapping liner. I plan on getting a new liner and some floor pads....any suggestions on a good place with good prices??? Thanks =)

answer:

Of course I would recommend my store at the address below, but with liners it is a good idea to deal locally just in case you have a problem with it. Price wise I know the cost of materials like vinyl have skyrocketed. For your size pool I would say around 0. Anything less would be a good value but beware before you buy that you have not sacrificed any quality. My biggest concern for you would be how to get those top rails off. You may have to either cut the deck back or lift some of the deck flooring up a little. Whatever it may take but it sounds like the deck will give you some problems in replacing the liner. Once you manage to get the top rails off it may be worth converting the pool from an overlap liner to a beaded by adding a bead track or receiver. They sit on top of the pool wall under the top rails. The liner simply sits in the track and when it needs to be replaced you don't have to dismantle the pool to do so. Hope this helps and if you have any more pool questions I have an informational pool blog at http://www.swimtodaypoolservice.com

question:

why remove an in ground pool?
I may be buying a house that has an outdoor inground pool. I have no use for the pool but don't want to go to the expense and trouble of removing it. Can I just cover it over with plywood or similar appropriate material and build a deck/patio above and around it?

answer:

To dispose of the pool, the bottom of the pool at the lowest portion, should be broken up. The broken pieces may be left in place and the pool is usually filled with fill sand. It can be topped with a foot of topsoil if you like to mow yard. The walkway and perimeter of the pool is usually removed to a depth of approx. 2'. But if you want to build a deck or patio in the area you could use the pool perimeter for a great foundation to build upon. A compacted sand backfill material would be a great place to install a patio.
If the pool is not filled you will have a definite water issue with smells, animals, molds etc. If a significant portion of the bottom is not broken up, you will have an even larger problem with a mud hole that will never go away.
While fine tuning the requirements for filling the pool with the local authorities, make certain they take it off any taxing basis / documents. Depending on the quality of the pool, the local weather conditions and the extent of your patio / deck, the value of your property may increase.

question:

i need a material list to build a deck?
i want to build a deck 18 feet by 10 feet square 52 inches high

answer:

This site is a very good site. I built a round deck around my 24' pool and was very satisfied with the plans and material list they provided.

question:

What is some proper behavior in and around the pool deck?

answer:

DO:
Shower before entering pool
Use proper restroom facilities
Follow all posted rules
Obey commands and requests by lifeguards, maintenance staff, deck attendants, management, and other staff
Ensure that children who are not toilet-trained are wearing diaper, plastic pants, and a swimsuit
Watch your children or other dependents
Report any accidents, incidents, spills, or injuries to nearest lifeguard or staff member
Lock personal items in lockers

DO NOT:
Run
Eat food except in designated areas
Bring glass, soap, or any other material that may interfere with safe or efficient pool operations
Dive in areas not designated for diving
Engage in horseplay or other dangerous activities
Leave any valuable items unattended
Create excessive amounts of noise
Leave garbage on the deck
Engage in any activity that may impede lifeguards or other staff or their equipment
Bring animals, except for service animals such as seeing-eye dogs
Remain on deck during thunderstorms or severe weather
Swim alone
Use cell phones, cameras, or video equipment in locker rooms or restrooms
Enter the water in street clothes
Hold onto pool-owned tubes, rafts, deck chairs, etc. if you are not using them, especially on busy days

question:

Anyone built an astroturf putting green in their backyard using astroturf and wood (no concrete)? Any tips?
I have a slightly sloped yard so I was thinking about usin the concrete blocks that are used for decks and 4x4 posts to build the supports for a platform so that it will be level. Then make 4x8 frames out of 2x4s and connect these to the posts. Cover with exteror plywood to have basically a pool table. Cut the holes and cover with astrotruf. Any thoughts? I am worried about warping and rot, but unless I want to bring in a lost of fill and/or concrete (which I do not for either) I can't come up with anything better. Thanks.

answer:

Skip the plywood - your fears are correct in that you will have plywood warping in just a few weeks, and wood rot within a few months. The way that the artificial greens are built is using a base of crushed lime (which holds its' shape well after being compacted), covered by astroturf that has a much thicker rubber base than the cheap stuff you can get at your local home improvement store. Once the astroturf is laid, use sod staples (the U-shaped 6" long anchors for holding down sod or landscape fabric) to hold it in place, then top dress with sand and sweep in until it rolls as fast as you want. If you are doing the work yourself, figure around -6/ square foot for all materials, unless you are lucky enough to find a great deal on the turf or the base material. Thus, for a green of 15 x 30 feet, figure ~00-2500, and somewhat more to have it professionally installed.

Before you choke on the price tag, think about this: If you use the right materials and do it right the first time, it should easily last 10 years or longer with very little maintenance (sweeping off leaves, topdressing w/ sand).

Decking Material

Wednesday, June 5, 2013

Best Decking Material Around Pool

best decking material around pool

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